If you think you've spent a lot of money on the door, I definitely think you should have it properly installed, it's for your own good. And the door extension feels absolutely more laborious and uglier than just lowering the frame the ~5mm needed.snowjim said:
Exactly.
Redo, make it right.
Redo, make it right.
Normally, I doubt anyone would think about whether the craftsman raised the threshold by 5 mm for any "reasonable" reason. Now it stings a bit more since we have a robot that wants to get over the edge as easily as possible, making it extra interesting to solve.
It's always easy to say "do it again, do it right" when you're not the one who has to put in the time. In this case, it involves disassembly for 1 hour, filling in with cement for 1/2 hour, waiting a week, and reassembly for 1 hour. That amounts to at least 2 1/2 more hours and the job originally took 3-4 hours. I know the craftsman won't redo it for free since he believes I should have explained the issue beforehand. So either I do this job myself or pay someone an extra thousand kronor to fix it.
As I said, my current thought is to glue a white 5 mm strip on the underside of the door leaf and, if needed, use latex to hide any seams. I'm highly doubtful anyone will ever notice it unless I point it out. Regarding the frame against the arch, I will as mentioned, apply plaster there and maybe some soft sealant, so it won't be something noticeable.
Of course, I can ask what it would cost to fix it, but I'm pretty sure it will be at least 1000-1500 SEK. We should also not overlook the risk of other defects in the material, bumps, paint scratches, or other issues that can easily occur when disassembling and reassembling.
It's always easy to say "do it again, do it right" when you're not the one who has to put in the time. In this case, it involves disassembly for 1 hour, filling in with cement for 1/2 hour, waiting a week, and reassembly for 1 hour. That amounts to at least 2 1/2 more hours and the job originally took 3-4 hours. I know the craftsman won't redo it for free since he believes I should have explained the issue beforehand. So either I do this job myself or pay someone an extra thousand kronor to fix it.
As I said, my current thought is to glue a white 5 mm strip on the underside of the door leaf and, if needed, use latex to hide any seams. I'm highly doubtful anyone will ever notice it unless I point it out. Regarding the frame against the arch, I will as mentioned, apply plaster there and maybe some soft sealant, so it won't be something noticeable.
Of course, I can ask what it would cost to fix it, but I'm pretty sure it will be at least 1000-1500 SEK. We should also not overlook the risk of other defects in the material, bumps, paint scratches, or other issues that can easily occur when disassembling and reassembling.
The door you have is made with a light frame and single glazing, which is not particularly soundproof.
Before you do anything, you can test how much sound passes the threshold. Place a bath towel so that it covers the gap when the door is closed. If there's not much difference with or without the towel as a "sound dampener," I wouldn't do anything with the threshold or the door.
Before you do anything, you can test how much sound passes the threshold. Place a bath towel so that it covers the gap when the door is closed. If there's not much difference with or without the towel as a "sound dampener," I wouldn't do anything with the threshold or the door.
That's correct, it's molded which I assume means there are some air spaces and paper in it. Does this automatically mean it dampens worse? Soundproofing mats tend to dampen quite well even though they contain lots of air. In any case, it is after all a glass door, so it probably doesn't have revolutionary properties in stopping sound.thomas33 said:
We've done a couple of tests, and if we have music in the room at our normal volume and close the door, it actually makes a surprisingly big difference. If we place a towel by the threshold, there's definitely an audible difference for the better.
What are you supposed to fill in with cement? You already have a gap at the top that will become 5mm wider. It's usually filled with insulation and covered with a door trim, but I understand you don't want door trim. What were you thinking instead? As you mentioned, it's a bad idea to plaster the gap as it will crack quite quickly.snowjim said:
My idea is to apply plaster up to the frame just as it's been done before and then on top of that apply some soft sealant that can handle some movement. That's how it's done on all other doors in the basement and it seems to hold up well. The only part that might be a bit more sensitive here is the plaster applied at the top in the 1 cm deep groove; perhaps it's better to fill this with some soft sealant as well.cpalm said:
It should be possible to achieve this somehow, but it will cost a bit to have a strip sawn, which then needs to be spray-painted, so of course, I have to check with the craftsman what it might cost if he saws, drills, and installs it again, but this time 5 mm lower. I should be able to handle the disassembly myself, and filling in the holes is no big deal; of course, you have to wait a week for it to dry completely.
"Just saying "redo, do it right" is always easy to say if you don't have to spend the time yourself. In this case, it's about disassembling for 1 hour, filling in with cement for 1/2 hour, waiting a week, and reinstalling for 1 hour. In other words, at least 2 1/2 extra hours and the job originally took 3-4 hours. I know that craftsmen will not redo this for free since he believes I should have explained the problem beforehand. So either I have to do this work myself or pay an extra 1000 kronor to get it fixed."
I find it hard to see the problem. According to the pictures, the carpenter measured wrong and chipped away plaster at the top of the door opening. To hide his mistake and thereby avoid restoring the chipped plaster, he mounted the door higher than necessary and blamed it all on you. -You should have told the poor fellow that you wanted the door properly installed (so that the nice cat can't escape?). Astonishingly unprofessional!
Redo, do it right!
Staffan
I find it hard to see the problem. According to the pictures, the carpenter measured wrong and chipped away plaster at the top of the door opening. To hide his mistake and thereby avoid restoring the chipped plaster, he mounted the door higher than necessary and blamed it all on you. -You should have told the poor fellow that you wanted the door properly installed (so that the nice cat can't escape?). Astonishingly unprofessional!
Redo, do it right!
Staffan
There is something called Husfix. There are several brands.snowjim said:
About Casco's they write
Yes, I was reading up on it yesterday, so it seems to go pretty quickly.
Say I were to do all of this myself, i.e.:
1. Dismantle the door and frame (8 screws)
2. Fill the holes with husfix and wait a day
3. Drill new holes 5 mm lower and re-install the frame.
How much work do you think this actually is? Can I, who have never installed a door or window before, make it fit without a lot of hassle? I've got it in my head that you need quite a bit of experience to get everything straight and neat?
Say I were to do all of this myself, i.e.:
1. Dismantle the door and frame (8 screws)
2. Fill the holes with husfix and wait a day
3. Drill new holes 5 mm lower and re-install the frame.
How much work do you think this actually is? Can I, who have never installed a door or window before, make it fit without a lot of hassle? I've got it in my head that you need quite a bit of experience to get everything straight and neat?