Putting a strip at the bottom of such a nice door we won't do, it's just as bad as raising the threshold 8 mm.
So either the door has to be moved down or we live with the margin.
However, I thank you for your opinions, interesting to hear how you would have solved it
So either the door has to be moved down or we live with the margin.
However, I thank you for your opinions, interesting to hear how you would have solved it
In what way would a few millimeters thick, white-painted strip make the door uglier?snowjim said:
I am completely sure that no one would notice it at all.
FYI: White-painted, grooved MDF is not especially "nice".
Yes, it is very possible we are being too picky, and that’s why I’m asking the question here to understand what's reasonable to expect.
As mentioned, we don't like thresholds and avoid them as much as possible. Additionally, we have a robot vacuum that needs to get over the threshold and smaller is better. The previous threshold gave it problems.
In this case, we need to have a threshold because it makes a difference in terms of sound insulation (we've tested it). So either the door has to be moved down or the threshold raised by 8 mm.
The craftsman said he didn't want to saw the frame and not the tiles on one side of the door, so that's why it turned out this way to keep it level. I still don't understand why one wouldn't want to saw the frame, but I'm a layman on the subject.
As it stands, it looks like we either have to fix it ourselves or raise the threshold by 8 mm. The color of the chipboard we place underneath doesn’t matter much since we’ll have moldings on both sides to cover it.
We’ll have to cut a piece and see if the robot can get over it.
As mentioned, we don't like thresholds and avoid them as much as possible. Additionally, we have a robot vacuum that needs to get over the threshold and smaller is better. The previous threshold gave it problems.
In this case, we need to have a threshold because it makes a difference in terms of sound insulation (we've tested it). So either the door has to be moved down or the threshold raised by 8 mm.
The craftsman said he didn't want to saw the frame and not the tiles on one side of the door, so that's why it turned out this way to keep it level. I still don't understand why one wouldn't want to saw the frame, but I'm a layman on the subject.
As it stands, it looks like we either have to fix it ourselves or raise the threshold by 8 mm. The color of the chipboard we place underneath doesn’t matter much since we’ll have moldings on both sides to cover it.
We’ll have to cut a piece and see if the robot can get over it.
But isn't this a front door?
What's the vacuum cleaner doing out there?
What's the vacuum cleaner doing out there?
hehe what? No, if it had been an exterior door, we definitely would have wanted it sealed all around the doorKnockOnWood said:
This is indoors, and the robot vacuum cleaner will occasionally move between the rooms where the door is.
I'm definitely planning on extending the door a bit. Filling, sanding, and painting the joint, so you'll need eagle eyes to notice it.
One thing no one has mentioned is simply lowering the door to the threshold level, and then extending it at the top. Up there, an extension piece is guaranteed not to be noticeable.
My experience with robot vacuum cleaners is that they are terribly picky about obstacles. Set up a small obstacle course with your robot vacuum cleaner before you start building, just to check for safety that it works.
One advantage of high thresholds, however, is that they keep dirt and debris out. Now, I don't know what room the door borders on or what it looks like where you live, but if the room outside has the slightest contact with the outdoor environment, it won't be long before you start bringing various dirt into the next room as well. I opted against threshold-free in favor of a reasonably thick threshold between the hall and the kitchen for that very reason, but then again, we live in the countryside.
One thing no one has mentioned is simply lowering the door to the threshold level, and then extending it at the top. Up there, an extension piece is guaranteed not to be noticeable.
My experience with robot vacuum cleaners is that they are terribly picky about obstacles. Set up a small obstacle course with your robot vacuum cleaner before you start building, just to check for safety that it works.
One advantage of high thresholds, however, is that they keep dirt and debris out. Now, I don't know what room the door borders on or what it looks like where you live, but if the room outside has the slightest contact with the outdoor environment, it won't be long before you start bringing various dirt into the next room as well. I opted against threshold-free in favor of a reasonably thick threshold between the hall and the kitchen for that very reason, but then again, we live in the countryside.
PS! In our somewhat older house, I have indeed had to both trim and edge doors, so that the new standard fits the older style. But when it comes to an edged door, I barely remember which one it was. I think it was to the youngest son's room. That's how much it shows.
Why have a threshold at all?snowjim said:
Remove the threshold and lower the frame and door properly, and the robot will be happy
We have no thresholds in our six-year-old house.
But no vacuum robot either, for that matter
I agree with those who think the frame should be cut and lowered. Do it right
It will also look better at the top.
It will also look better at the top.
Is this what's called karma? 😂😂Freddex said:
There is no reason to set a jamb so high that it does not reach the threshold, something has obviously gone wrong. And raising the threshold even more I think is the wrong approach, even though it's the easiest. I think you can definitely demand that the craftsman lower the jamb to where it is supposed to be, but if you feel it's too much trouble to break everything open again, you can say that he doesn't have to if he extends the door. Anyone can screw on a wooden strip and fill it invisibly. But in any case, he should fix the mistake in the way you want.
The craftsman will not fix it as he did not see any issues with raising the frame "a few" mm; he was not aware of the circumstances that made it a potential problem. If one were to have the job inspected, one would likely get an OK on it after the moldings and everything else were in place.
A couple of you in the thread suggested extending the door, which I unfortunately dismissed directly. This actually seems to be the second easiest solution to the problem and could furthermore yield a good result.
The idea then is to have a piece cut and then painted (probably spray to keep it even) and then glue it on. I would like to avoid nailing since the door contains glass and, after all, costs over 3000 kr new. There will likely be a seam, which I would have to fill with latex or something similar. I do not want to make any noticeable impact on the door itself if possible. The door will probably always sit where it is until someone eventually junks it.
To fill up around the frame, I am thinking of applying plaster on one side and moldings on the other. I understand that plaster will likely show a crack after a while, so I need to find something elastic to put there; latex is probably not elastic enough, any suggestions?
A couple of you in the thread suggested extending the door, which I unfortunately dismissed directly. This actually seems to be the second easiest solution to the problem and could furthermore yield a good result.
The idea then is to have a piece cut and then painted (probably spray to keep it even) and then glue it on. I would like to avoid nailing since the door contains glass and, after all, costs over 3000 kr new. There will likely be a seam, which I would have to fill with latex or something similar. I do not want to make any noticeable impact on the door itself if possible. The door will probably always sit where it is until someone eventually junks it.
To fill up around the frame, I am thinking of applying plaster on one side and moldings on the other. I understand that plaster will likely show a crack after a while, so I need to find something elastic to put there; latex is probably not elastic enough, any suggestions?