f91jsw said:
It doesn't crack if done right: screw glue the wooden piece to the back of the drywall. The glue ensures the drywall pieces don't move relative to each other, thus preventing cracks. The advantage of not using a tape is that it avoids a bump over the repair, which otherwise is inevitable.
Then we'll have to disagree.
And the fiberglass tape that you spread putty on only adds a few mm.
The average Svensson wall has larger unevenness.
 
This one is not so bad: [video=youtube;EXhDlDBzXjY]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EXhDlDBzXjY[/video]
 
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H
Thanks for all the tips, etc. Found a piece of mineritskiva in storage. Attached it to the supporting studs/lists, placed fiberglass strips over the joints since wood usually moves during one season or another. It's not much extra work with the strip, the mineritskiva was probably 10mm and the plaster 12, planed off some plaster at the edges of the joints to make space for the strip and putty. Applying putty in thin layers that are allowed to dry between layers, this will probably turn out great :)
 
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Ragganof said:
Then we will have to disagree.
And fiberglass tape that you fill builds a few mm.
The average Svensson wall has larger unevenness.
A drywall does not have irregularities of a few mm over an area of 10-15 cm. In raking light, it will be clearly visible.
 
f91jsw said:
A gypsum board does not have irregularities of a few mm over an area of 10-15 cm. In raking light, it will be clearly visible.
Everything is visible in raking light, completely irrelevant.
And of course, there will be a bulge if you apply such a small amount of filler.
 
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