How to find studs behind wooden façade? Installing a ledger board on a wooden façade.
You are right but not all the way 
What acctr is getting at is a solution that can work, because cutting at an angle means that water doesn't find its way into the groove quite as easily, although some part can naturally rise through capillary action.
You are also correct that I mean the natural wear and tear from weather, but I also mean that when you screw the supporting beam against the facade, it creates problems with the water that lands on the deck and is directed towards the facade, as well as the dirt that eventually ends up in the angle and in the "gap" which traps moisture that then does not dry out.
Also consider the problem you get in winter when you have potential snow resting against the facade. That problem persists whether you attach the supporting beam to the facade or if you have a gap. The advantage of a gap is that the melted water can run freely down and drip off and not accumulate and get absorbed into the facade.
Then there are additional aspects of increased wear on the facade as a result of deck construction when you have all the splashing water from raindrops etc. which increases the moisture load at the bottom.
If you look at deck constructions and even balconies without high thresholds from different perspectives, you will come to a long discussion about what is right or wrong, with different answers depending on whom you ask.
Today we build handicap-friendly without thresholds or unsightly ramps to be nice, and accessibility regulations require it. But at the same time, AMA requires a level difference of 30 cm (If I remember correctly, though I haven’t read the latest) to prevent leakage into, among others, doors during winter.
/Torpalainen
What acctr is getting at is a solution that can work, because cutting at an angle means that water doesn't find its way into the groove quite as easily, although some part can naturally rise through capillary action.
You are also correct that I mean the natural wear and tear from weather, but I also mean that when you screw the supporting beam against the facade, it creates problems with the water that lands on the deck and is directed towards the facade, as well as the dirt that eventually ends up in the angle and in the "gap" which traps moisture that then does not dry out.
Also consider the problem you get in winter when you have potential snow resting against the facade. That problem persists whether you attach the supporting beam to the facade or if you have a gap. The advantage of a gap is that the melted water can run freely down and drip off and not accumulate and get absorbed into the facade.
Then there are additional aspects of increased wear on the facade as a result of deck construction when you have all the splashing water from raindrops etc. which increases the moisture load at the bottom.
If you look at deck constructions and even balconies without high thresholds from different perspectives, you will come to a long discussion about what is right or wrong, with different answers depending on whom you ask.
Today we build handicap-friendly without thresholds or unsightly ramps to be nice, and accessibility regulations require it. But at the same time, AMA requires a level difference of 30 cm (If I remember correctly, though I haven’t read the latest) to prevent leakage into, among others, doors during winter.
/Torpalainen
Can inform you that I have taken your various ideas and viewpoints into account. Many clever solutions and knowledge, but I chose to bury extra plintrad. This results in a few cm gap between the deck's framework and the facade.
This ensures that water drains down just as before and I can also remove the innermost decking board if the facade needs painting or a facade board needs replacing.
This ensures that water drains down just as before and I can also remove the innermost decking board if the facade needs painting or a facade board needs replacing.