I’m going to mount a support beam against a wooden facade for the patio I’m building. I’m planning to set 2 French wood screws 10x120mm approximately every 50 cm. The support beam will be 7m long.
I assume you have to hit the studs with the French wood screws, or is it enough to just place them every half meter directly in?
...If that's the case, I’m also wondering how to locate the wooden studs behind the wooden facade?
You should be able to see where the panel boards are nailed.
Or are they nailed into something else?
Hopefully, they are not nailed into the stud, as that would mean there's no air gap. But they might be nailed onto a 28x70, which in turn is nailed to the stud.
I would assume you have a stud by the window and then studs on cc60.
You can use the nail head on the panel board to determine the height of the french (I assume you have vertical paneling), so you draw the french through the panel board + glesen and calculate so it also sits in the stud.
The bright turquoise line shows where it is nailed, but as Nimhed said, the panel might be nailed into a 28x70 and that is probably not enough to fasten in?
It is 130cm from the house corner to the patio door. Could it be that there is an upright stud to the left of the patio door?
One option is to bolt a bearer to the foundation instead. Place a joist hanger at the appropriate height so you reach the right level.
What is your measurement from the foundation to the panel board?
Another thought that comes to mind when I see the picture; do you have to attach the deck to the house? (Maybe there's a rule I'm missing that decks need to be attached to the house to be exempt from building permits, for example...?) If the base for the stones is solid and nice, why not leave the stones in place and put a support beam on the stones nearest the house? How have you planned the rest of the construction?
If you can peek into the crawl space, you can probably see at what height you have the sill. It's perfect to screw into since it sits at the same height around the entire house If you can't/don't want to crawl in there, you can drill several vertical holes with a narrow long drill until you find the sill.
Ignore trying to find any standing rule, behind the lower row of nails you have nail battens and then with 99% certainty a sill.
So screw your French screws into the sill and use some shorter screws like 6x80 at the top into the panel!
On 4 out of 5 terraces where the support beam is screwed into the façade, the façade starts to look terrible after a while, and then when you want to paint or replace a board, it's no fun. No, I would consider not fastening it to the façade but instead using a plinth or it should be enough with a support under the support beam closest to the façade and leaving the terrace 10 mm from the façade.
Of course, you need to have a flashing up on the panel and out onto the decking a bit, just like you need above doors, windows, and everything else you attach to the facade, nothing you can avoid with a patio that is installed close to the house. The simplest for your house will probably be to saw with the plunge saw, 15 degrees angle, about 26mm deep, and approximately 15cm above the finished deck.
The cladding disappears, and you get a groove in the lower boards, in the groove you then need to place a bent flashing that runs along the panel and then out over the deck.
(Unfortunately) the only way to do it right and properly so the panel lasts as long as the decking material!
Eeeh... I have never seen a patio with a metal sheet in the angle between the facade and the decking. How do you mean that it would protect? You actually cause a greater risk of moisture damage by cutting a groove in the facade boards!?
When you put a sheet over doors and similar, it's because there's a risk of rainwater getting inside the facade/frame since you are breaking the seal that the facade boards provide. When you build a patio by the house, there's no reason to cut holes in the facade as you suggest.
What Torpalainen is getting at (I assume...?) is simply the natural wear and tear from weather and wind, which is addressed by repainting at regular intervals. Not that water has penetrated the facade. The screws used to attach a ledger board are the only thing that breaks that seal, and that little can hardly cause more than marginal damage.
I would rather ensure that the patio is constructed so that it's easy to detach/remove the three innermost deck boards to be able to repaint the facade all the way down and at the same time avoid messing up the deck.
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