I agree with you that it is faster and cheaper, in terms of sound it may differ by about 10 db, but that gain is most likely lost at the door. The floor structure, where the floorboard cuts between the walls to remove some of the structure-borne sound. If it's a load-bearing floor, then the concrete itself is sound-dampening.
I'm thinking about having a plasterboard instead of the space between the studs, would this work?
It would then become two walls in a row, something to recommend? Is it possible to do this without plastering or treating the squeezed wall at all?
Picture again of the intended wall: http://postimg.org/image/cuh10louv/ (I was thinking of putting in a plasterboard instead of the space between the walls).
It would then become two walls in a row, something to recommend? Is it possible to do this without plastering or treating the squeezed wall at all?
Picture again of the intended wall: http://postimg.org/image/cuh10louv/ (I was thinking of putting in a plasterboard instead of the space between the walls).
The air gap in the middle serves its purpose. Just as we have discussed in the thread before.
'If you put a board there instead, the point is lost. Then I think you might as well make a completely ordinary wall instead.
Like 13 gypsum, 12.5 plyfa, 95 steel stud, 95mm mineral wool, 12.5 plyfa, 13 gypsum. Then you have a really stable wall.
Then there's a plethora of different steel studs, sound studs, etc., but I think that's overkill at home at least..
'If you put a board there instead, the point is lost. Then I think you might as well make a completely ordinary wall instead.
Like 13 gypsum, 12.5 plyfa, 95 steel stud, 95mm mineral wool, 12.5 plyfa, 13 gypsum. Then you have a really stable wall.
Then there's a plethora of different steel studs, sound studs, etc., but I think that's overkill at home at least..
Thank you for your response, Östlund.
The problem I see is that I need a wall that soundproofs as much as possible, preferably more than 60db. I was then wondering if the plasterboard shouldn't provide better sound insulation than an air gap.
Otherwise, it simply has to be the first version discussed at the beginning.
The problem I see is that I need a wall that soundproofs as much as possible, preferably more than 60db. I was then wondering if the plasterboard shouldn't provide better sound insulation than an air gap.
Otherwise, it simply has to be the first version discussed at the beginning.
That "10 db" figure, is it something you have evidence for, or did you just randomly pick a number? Because if you reduce it by 10 db simply by having a couple of cm of air inside the wall, that is a huge gain, well worth the cost. However, if it's just a guess, it would be unwise for someone to build based on that.jens71 said:
Hi, you can do as you think. So add another drywall instead of the air gap. But then also move the other wall out by 13mm, then you'll have an air gap too 
Check if you can find Gyproc's handbook. It contains everything about walls and more...
If the requirements are that high, I think you should use acoustic sealant on all studs against the ceiling, floor, and walls.
If you can't find such sealant at the hardware store, regular silicone should work.
Check if you can find Gyproc's handbook. It contains everything about walls and more...
If the requirements are that high, I think you should use acoustic sealant on all studs against the ceiling, floor, and walls.
If you can't find such sealant at the hardware store, regular silicone should work.