Hello,
I'm very new to crafts and the like. I'm thinking of building an interior wall and I'm particularly interested in this construction: [img=http://s23.postimg.org/cuh10louv/Sk_rmavbild_2013_06_14_kl_21_53_02.jpg] as it is supposed to soundproof very well.
In short about the wall: Double drywall, "essentially two walls", soundproofs about 60db.
It can also be seen at http://ehandbok.gyproc.se/Gyproc/GyprocHandbok/, pages 202-203.
Now I'm wondering a bit, I don't fully understand the image and I'm very new to this. The white gap between the walls, there should be nothing there, right? But if so, how do you erect the wall so that the mineral wool / glass wool doesn't fall down between the gap between the two walls?
Then, is it just a matter of going with cc600 or do you also need nogging pieces between the studs? Is this always the case for double drywall?
Very grateful for all answers!
I'm very new to crafts and the like. I'm thinking of building an interior wall and I'm particularly interested in this construction: [img=http://s23.postimg.org/cuh10louv/Sk_rmavbild_2013_06_14_kl_21_53_02.jpg] as it is supposed to soundproof very well.
In short about the wall: Double drywall, "essentially two walls", soundproofs about 60db.
It can also be seen at http://ehandbok.gyproc.se/Gyproc/GyprocHandbok/, pages 202-203.
Now I'm wondering a bit, I don't fully understand the image and I'm very new to this. The white gap between the walls, there should be nothing there, right? But if so, how do you erect the wall so that the mineral wool / glass wool doesn't fall down between the gap between the two walls?
Then, is it just a matter of going with cc600 or do you also need nogging pieces between the studs? Is this always the case for double drywall?
Very grateful for all answers!
There should be space between the studs and the insulation is pre-cut to fit between the studs. You can always run a line on the studs in the gap if you're worried they might fall out. The noggings are not needed. In Norway, we also cut the floorboards in the gap to prevent some structural noise, though not in the floor joists in the flooring. Not my own invention but was on the construction drawing.
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Preferably, you should stagger the studs so that they don't line up directly opposite each other, I've heard.
I think this solution looks unnecessary if you just want it as an interior wall.headmaster200 said:
Unless it is to separate apartments.
The gap is there so the two walls don't connect. It prevents sound and vibrations from traveling through the wall. The insulation can be fastened with nails, or insulation holders.
You can also make separating walls with metal studs, with the same function.
For example, a 120mm track, which has 95mm metal studs staggered in it.
http://download.rockwool.se/media/4740/841.gif
Thanks for all the replies!
I’ll probably run a line on the studs so they don’t fall out, it would be a heck of a job if that happened...
By the way, I’m also going to have a door installed. Do I always need a vertical kortling between the kortling above the door and the ceiling joist?
I’ll probably run a line on the studs so they don’t fall out, it would be a heck of a job if that happened...
By the way, I’m also going to have a door installed. Do I always need a vertical kortling between the kortling above the door and the ceiling joist?
as it looks here: http://www.byggbeskrivningar.se/pdf...7&Fid=103&Inline=103.pdf&Doc=Broschyr&Cid=578
cc on the rule above? Isn't it just to draw it from one door post to the other directly above the door?
cc on the rule above? Isn't it just to draw it from one door post to the other directly above the door?
Aha, I meant the vertical one still. But I mixed it up and you probably answered two of my questions there 
Now I understand what you mean by cc on the vertical, should I measure it from the nearest beam (door post) or the one before that? (I can't get cc 600 if I measure from the door post, or maybe it's not needed?).
Now I understand what you mean by cc on the vertical, should I measure it from the nearest beam (door post) or the one before that? (I can't get cc 600 if I measure from the door post, or maybe it's not needed?).
When building a long wall with many doorways, it is sometimes unavoidable to include the door post in the measurement chain.
However, in your case, do not include the door posts in the cc measurement. It will only be troublesome if you get a gypsum joint right in the door post.
The most stable option if using one layer of gypsum is to have the gypsum joint above the doorway.
However, in your case, do not include the door posts in the cc measurement. It will only be troublesome if you get a gypsum joint right in the door post.
The most stable option if using one layer of gypsum is to have the gypsum joint above the doorway.
One gets the feeling that it would insulate sound even better if the studs were staggered in relation to each other. Then you would also avoid the gap between the studs.
(You also avoid "running a line." You shouldn't do that while carpentry. It seems very good while you're doing it, but afterwards, you see how it really turned out.)
(You also avoid "running a line." You shouldn't do that while carpentry. It seems very good while you're doing it, but afterwards, you see how it really turned out.
)Thank you so much!
Should be able to start building the wall next week.
However, I've noticed one thing, the door I was thinking of using is 95mm deep, and I would preferably only use steel studs. But I can't find any 95mm steel studs out there besides ones that have to be special ordered? Do they not exist, or am I just being careless?
From the popular building stores, I only find: http://www.beijerbygg.se/store/priv...rofiler/stålregel-er95-ergo-2985-mm-900018614 :/
Should be able to start building the wall next week.
However, I've noticed one thing, the door I was thinking of using is 95mm deep, and I would preferably only use steel studs. But I can't find any 95mm steel studs out there besides ones that have to be special ordered? Do they not exist, or am I just being careless?
From the popular building stores, I only find: http://www.beijerbygg.se/store/priv...rofiler/stålregel-er95-ergo-2985-mm-900018614 :/
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This type of wall I showed, where "2 walls share the same track," we have built in several hotels and apartment buildings, where the requirements are high.jens71 said:
A good solution as the wall doesn't become too thick, and you save a lot of time by avoiding installing double spacers in the ceiling and floor.
The improvement in sound insulation if you have 2 top plates as you describe is probably marginal.
After all, the wall stands on the same joists, and at the door opening, the walls also come into contact with each other.