How to build a sliding door for a workshop

[Lawrence]

I am working on a small workshop, see separate thread.
I am going to build sliding doors in wood, 2 layers of tongue and groove boards like the facade boards.
Now I'm wondering which of the following 2 methods is best
Layer 1 Vertical panel
Layer 2 Vertical panel with offset boards
or
Layer 1 Vertical panel
Layer 2 Horizontal panel
I am thinking about which is best when the panel starts to shrink
Grateful for advice

 

[JKrister]

From what I understand, you have vertical paneling as the façade. Am I right in assuming there won’t be any studs in the construction?
I wouldn’t go for vertical+vertical since the sliding door needs to be completely flat. Rather vertical+horizontal so everything will be flat, which might cause problems with right angles.

Alternative 3, which I believe in, is to have a couple of horizontals on the inside, depending on the total height, maybe three. And between these, have diagonal paneling. If you want an even inside, you can cover with many diagonals, otherwise just one. Z-configuration on the back of doors has long been used and ensures both flatness and right angles.

 

[Lawrence]

From what I understand, you have vertical paneling as the facade. Do I get it right that there won't be any studs in the construction? I wouldn't go with vertical+vertical since the sliding door needs to be completely flat. Better vertical+horizontal so the whole thing will be flat though there might be problems with right angles.

Alternative 3 which I believe in is having a couple of horizontal ones on the inside, depending on the total height, but maybe three. And between these have diagonal paneling. If you want an even inside, you can cover with many diagonals, otherwise just one. Z-backing on doors has long been used and ensures both flatness and right angles.

OK thanks, good thought with three layers. I'm now considering:
Layer 1 Vertical panel 22mm
Layer 2 MDF 16 mm (provides stability and right angles) encased with wood all around
Layer 3 Vertical panel 22 mm
Gives a total of 60mm and a clearance of 5mm
Any thoughts on this?

 

[prototypen]

Never MDF, absorbs water better than a dishcloth.
Never panel in a cross (horizontally and vertically), not at 45° either.

Use horizontal battens and tongue-and-groove boards on the outside, it is a sliding door so diagonal bracing is overkill.

Protte

 

[JKrister]

Interesting. Front door that slides into the wall with a 70mm cavity?
Hanging with a guide pin below or wheels on the floor and guide at the top?
Yes, a sheet of some kind of plywood or MDF I would try to include. MDF quickly becomes heavy. Do you want paneling inside? Otherwise, you can put a veneer on, for example, plywood to make it look nice inside.

I think that 5mm sounds tight.

 

[Lawrence]

Sorry! I must have explained poorly, it is a surface-mounted sliding door on the workshop shed. I want it to be relatively sturdy, heavy. It has hanging rollers in Ök possibly a track in uk.

 

[JKrister]

Why do you want it so thin?

 

[JKrister]

Now I have been on the construction thread and understand a bit better. I would probably have tried to place the exterior panel outside the rolling fittings and go up with it so that it covers the wheels and track, a bit nicer that way.

 

[Lawrence]

Now I've been on the construction thread and understand a bit better. I probably would have tried to place the outer panel outside the rolling fittings and go up with it so it covers the wheels and track, looks a bit nicer that way.

Yes, there's something to that, but I'm still unclear about the construction. What do you think now that you've seen the actual shed?

 

[JKrister]

Had built a frame in 70x45 with a diagonal in it. Outer panel and inner lining depending on what the rest is.

Then it’s just about placing the fittings so that the door almost fits completely tight against the wall. Then moldings can be put on the door and door hole so that it becomes completely tight when the doors are closed. Down below is probably the hardest...

 

[Lawrence]

OK thanks for the tip, frame 70 x 45 means that the gate's thickness exceeds 60 mm which is my max measurement. But I would like to build the gate in three layers as mentioned earlier. Is there no board asfaboard, formply or similar that would be suitable?

 

[JKrister]

Okay. Had difficulty understanding the 60mm requirement.

Would assume that plywood clad in paneling becomes strong as hell.
But cheaper to use regular plywood and nail 60mm strips around the entire outside, so you protect both the entrance and the plywood.

The strip around also makes it easy to seal against the house.