How would you attach this edge strip?
1. Glue?
2. Drill and nail from above?
3. Drill and nail from the side?
4. Another way?

It's the ascent from a staircase if that matters.

IMG_20200524_115336.png

IMG_20200524_115349.png
 
2+3 I would have done.

Protte
 
You should not nail from the top because it looks like a parquet floor which moves, and you don't want to nail it to the substrate. Nail from the side or alternatively use an adhesive like tec7 or pl800 or similar. This makes it easy to adjust the molding so the miters are perfect. Just remember not to apply too much adhesive that it comes out below the molding because it can be a bit difficult to remove, but if it happens, let it dry and just cut it off with a new gypsum blade. Unfortunately, the miter may separate a bit over time, but it's really nicely cut!
 
Last edited:
  • Like
peterlarsen
  • Laddar…
double-sided tape!
 
One way to make the miter joint a bit stronger is to drill a hole between the parts in the miter and insert one or two nails to lock the parts against each other...so it stays nice for a long time.
 
S Snickarkirre said:
You should not nail from above as it looks like a parquet floor which moves and you don't want to nail it to the substrate. Nail to the side or alternatively glue the side with something like tec7 or PL800 or similar. Then it is easy to adjust the boards so the miter becomes perfect. Just keep in mind not to use too much glue so it doesn't seep out under the board as it can be a bit tricky to remove, but if it happens, let it dry and just cut it off with a new utility blade. Unfortunately, the miter will likely dry apart a bit over time, but it's really nicely cut!
How is NoNails compared to tec7 / PL800?
I think I have a bit of that actually.
If you glue on the side, and later step on the board, it feels like it would come off very easily then?
Thanks, there were several fine adjustments with the cutting!
 
T tobbbias said:
One way to make the miter joint a bit stronger is to drill a hole between the parts in the miter and insert one or two brads to lock the parts against each other...so it stays nice for a long time
Gluing the miter joint with wood glue, would that work? Or maybe with sikaflex, which is a bit more flexible.
Seems like very little material for me to manage drilling and inserting brads there.
 
Well, you can try with wood glue; it might work. Seems like a big risk of it cracking if you try to nail the mitre when the trim is so thin. Otherwise, you should let the trims sit for a while to acclimate before attaching them. If you're going to paint them, you can always touch them up once they've dried apart. I don't know about Nonails as I've never used it. But I have glued a lot with Tec7 and PL-800 and similar adhesives at work, and if they are allowed to cure properly, they stick like a rock.
 
Click here to reply
Vi vill skicka notiser för ämnen du bevakar och händelser som berör dig.