Hi!
I am going to attach a terrace awning (6 meters long, 60kg) to the facade. It is not possible to attach the awning brackets directly to the rafters as it would not center the awning over the patio, so I need to mount a support beam. My questions are:
1. What dimension screws do I need to fasten the support beam to the eaves (rafters?)? Thickness and length requested. I was thinking of using French timber screws.
2. Can I attach the awning brackets to the support beam (I was thinking of a 45mm thick support beam) with French timber screws and if so, what dimensions of screws? Or will the support beam be too thin for the weight of the awning? Behind the support beam is a layer of facade with an underlying air gap. Is it better to use bolts and nuts to attach the awning brackets? In the bolt-and-nut alternative, I have to place short wooden strips behind the support beam at the rafters to create a distance so that later, when mounting the awning brackets, I can access a nut behind the support beam.
Best regards, Nils
I am going to attach a terrace awning (6 meters long, 60kg) to the facade. It is not possible to attach the awning brackets directly to the rafters as it would not center the awning over the patio, so I need to mount a support beam. My questions are:
1. What dimension screws do I need to fasten the support beam to the eaves (rafters?)? Thickness and length requested. I was thinking of using French timber screws.
2. Can I attach the awning brackets to the support beam (I was thinking of a 45mm thick support beam) with French timber screws and if so, what dimensions of screws? Or will the support beam be too thin for the weight of the awning? Behind the support beam is a layer of facade with an underlying air gap. Is it better to use bolts and nuts to attach the awning brackets? In the bolt-and-nut alternative, I have to place short wooden strips behind the support beam at the rafters to create a distance so that later, when mounting the awning brackets, I can access a nut behind the support beam.
Best regards, Nils
Welcome to the forumN Nlsp said:
A picture or drawing would probably help to get you good answers.
Hello again!
Here's the image. The drawing is from above.
Top image: The load-bearing beam is attached, through the facade, to the rafters. The awning is attached to the load-bearing beam (and the facade) with a lag screw or similar.
Do you think it has sufficient load-bearing capacity and what dimensions should I use for the different screws?
Bottom image:
If a lag screw is not sufficient to hold the awning to the load-bearing beam, spacers (no. 4), the same as the load-bearing beam (45x120), can be added so I can attach with machine screw/bolt and nut and can access to hold the nut behind the load-bearing beam.
Best regards,
Nils
Here's the image. The drawing is from above.
Top image: The load-bearing beam is attached, through the facade, to the rafters. The awning is attached to the load-bearing beam (and the facade) with a lag screw or similar.
Do you think it has sufficient load-bearing capacity and what dimensions should I use for the different screws?
Bottom image:
If a lag screw is not sufficient to hold the awning to the load-bearing beam, spacers (no. 4), the same as the load-bearing beam (45x120), can be added so I can attach with machine screw/bolt and nut and can access to hold the nut behind the load-bearing beam.
Best regards,
Nils
I would install a suitable beam, for example, 45x120 on the rafters' ends. If there's a facade board in between, I would try to find a screw, for example, jetting 6-8mm thick and 120mm long. Ideally, the screw should not thread into the panel board, and the gap between the screw head and the start of the thread should be 45 + the panel board's thickness.
I don't really like French wood screws for wood-to-wood connections. I use coach bolts when fastening wood to metal fittings like building angles or similar.
I don't really like French wood screws for wood-to-wood connections. I use coach bolts when fastening wood to metal fittings like building angles or similar.
My awning sits directly in the feet... sorry, paws with French. The awning brackets can usually be moved along the awning rail to fit attachment points.
On one side, I have 80 cm before the first bracket, on the other side 20 cm, just to place the awning where I want it. It is out year-round about 120 cm, and it hasn't fallen down yet.
NOTE!! Important with dowels. Pre-drill with the same thickness as the screw has down in the threads -0.5 mm, then drill with a drill equal to the thickness of the waist as deep where the waist will be when mounted.
For example, if it's a 10 mm dowel 7 mm down in the threads, drill 6.5 mm the entire screw length, then 10 mm as deep as the waist. Lubricate the screw with grease or specific wax, it will then be both easier to insert and cut better threads in the wood.
A 45 mm support beam is a bit small to drive a dowel into, if you want one you should probably use a screw with a nut and large washers on the back. And as mentioned before, don't fasten the support beam with dowels, but you can use them for the awning.
On one side, I have 80 cm before the first bracket, on the other side 20 cm, just to place the awning where I want it. It is out year-round about 120 cm, and it hasn't fallen down yet.
NOTE!! Important with dowels. Pre-drill with the same thickness as the screw has down in the threads -0.5 mm, then drill with a drill equal to the thickness of the waist as deep where the waist will be when mounted.
For example, if it's a 10 mm dowel 7 mm down in the threads, drill 6.5 mm the entire screw length, then 10 mm as deep as the waist. Lubricate the screw with grease or specific wax, it will then be both easier to insert and cut better threads in the wood.
A 45 mm support beam is a bit small to drive a dowel into, if you want one you should probably use a screw with a nut and large washers on the back. And as mentioned before, don't fasten the support beam with dowels, but you can use them for the awning.