How do you attach a garage door to aerated concrete / siporex?

[MathiasS]

Use sleeve anchor with a load distribution washer and lightweight concrete screw.
Screw in double rows. That is, both in the rebate and in the visible part of the frame.
It holds!

exactly how I did it. Holds.

 

[Andreas Lundgren]

Thanks for all the tips!

I am still at an early stage and haven't polished yet. It feels like at the moment, it's quite a bit of extra work to insert a 45x170-regel into the frame.

I don't know if I want to glue wood to lightweight concrete without any construction plastic in between, surely wood and lightweight concrete have different moisture levels in normal condition? But I can waste as many lightweight concrete screws as I want into the regel and if it happens to come loose in the future, it feels like a minor effort to redo it then.

(The pillar in the middle is cast, so it shouldn't be a problem.)

 

[Andreas Lundgren]

Use frame sleeve with pressure distribution washer and lightweight concrete screw.
Screw in double rows. That is, both in the rabbet and in the visible part of the frame.
It holds!

Go with that for the door on the left, the back door, and the windows, thanks for the tip!

 

[Andreas Lundgren]

Personally, I like using plugs in lightweight concrete, and not those lightweight concrete plugs with massively large wings, but more normal plugs combined with, for example, 6x80 screws or the equivalent. I think it sets a little more often than the lightweight concrete screws, even though I sometimes start there and then switch to plugs in the holes where I either pull too hard or the screw slips for some other reason
[image]

Thanks for the tips, I've been thinking about how to attach shelves and everything else too, it feels so porous when working with the material. But now it feels more secure that the fastenings will hold without me going for Xella's Hilti option for 400 bucks a hole!

 

[myrstack]

The anchor I inserted a picture of supports all standard mounting as long as you drill properly and ensure the combo of anchor and screw works well. What you obviously want to avoid is drilling a hole too large for the anchor and then using the correct screw, which causes the anchor to expand without starting to rotate or pull out the anchor. I use both tracks with the Elfa system and wall cabinets on tracks that hold firmly.

Of course, it depends on choosing hooks and shelving systems that avoid pulling forces away from the wall. For example, if you're planning to hang winter tires on the wall, there are many models that can easily pull out all the anchors in the world, so a bit of thought is required when choosing items to hang on the wall.

 

[P-plats]

We have Siporex in almost all the walls at work and have attached many things there over the years. When it comes to plugs, I like the Turbo plug (the kind in plastic with a thread) the best, but more and more often, I've been using concrete screws instead. I then install significantly more, but it's much more convenient.

 

[Isakare]

The important thing when working with this material is to stop when it resists, not to pull "a little more" as one might do with materials like wood. Both the turbo plug and the lightweight concrete screw hold extremely well; nothing comes loose if installed correctly.