Horizontal beam in facade or not?

[Skåneskutan]

You can do something similar to what I did, see here

Just wanted to let you know that after much deliberation, your solution became the winning proposal, to attach posts in the concrete foundation which in turn hold up the bärlina. And a smart solution to create a "shelf" for the bärlina.

 

[Krokkodriljo]

Just wanted to inform that after much deliberation, it was your solution that became the winning proposal, to attach posts to the concrete foundation which in turn support the bearer. And smart solution to notch out a "shelf" for the bearer.

Great! It will be awesome. Good luck!

 

[Skåneskutan]

Fun! It will be great. Good luck!

Just one question, how did you attach the bearer to the notched post? I mean, what type of screw and how many per post?

 

[Krokkodriljo]

Just one question, how did you attach the bearing line to the notched post? I mean, what type of screw and how many per post?

Two French wood screws per post.

 

[GoC]

Just a question, how did you attach the load-bearing line in the notched post? I mean what type of screw and how many per post?

The easiest way is to fasten them with these in an appropriate dimension.
https://www.essve.com/sv/produkter/...-huvud/traskruv-waf-med-stort-huvud-corrseal/
significantly better than French wood screws

 

[Dr Jumping Jack]

I think it's good to have the deck completely separate. You avoid making holes in the facade, and if you need to get under the deck, you can just pick it up. Also, moisture-wise, I feel it's better to have a small air gap between the wood and the wall.

Probably no major differences in risks or costs, but I see it, in principle, as a completely unnecessary maneuver to attach it to the facade, with unnecessary risk of problems/complications.

If the support beams aren't heavy and stable enough to handle side forces, you can use angled braces. An alternative to high support beams is regular concrete slabs and a lower framework/wooden posts, or regular low posts with wooden posts. This way, it's easy to set up angled braces for side forces. The choice of solution is a matter of personal preference.

I think it's good to have the deck completely separate. You avoid making holes in the facade, and if you need to get under the deck, you can just pick it up. Also, moisture-wise, I feel it's better to have a small air gap between the wood and the wall.

Probably no major differences in risks or costs, but I see it, in principle, as a completely unnecessary maneuver to attach it to the facade, with unnecessary risk of problems/complications.

If the support beams aren't heavy and stable enough to handle side forces, you can use angled braces. An alternative to high support beams is regular concrete slabs and a lower framework/wooden posts, or regular low posts with wooden posts. This way, it's easy to set up angled braces for side forces. The choice of solution is a matter of personal preference.

Absolutely right!
If you attach a beam without an air gap, it rots, and if you attach it to a wooden facade, the facade rots.

 

[ArneTW]

Exactly right!
If a beam is attached without an air gap, it will rot, and if it is attached to a wooden facade, the facade will rot.

Not automatically... it also requires water to get there.

/ATW

 

[Oldboy]

Not automatically... it requires that water gets there too.

/ATW

Which it always does down at the plinth, unless you have a roof over it. Additionally, you always get a lot of ground splatter from the deck, even if the rain doesn't go in and hit the plinth directly.

 

[Skåneskutan]

One thought is that if you attach something to the facade, seal contact surfaces with a sealing compound like Sika BlackSeal. Maybe use silicone in the plug before screwing. Is that a crazy thought?

 

[Dr Jumping Jack]

One idea is that if you attach something to the facade, seal the contact surfaces with sealant like Sika BlackSeal. Maybe apply silicone in the plug before you screw it. Is that a crazy thought?

Better to mount the beam with a distance from the facade so you have an air gap, best of all not to attach to the facade at all!