I'm planning a retaining wall and now realize that I need to build it a bit higher than planned in one area. I'm using the Topaz stone from S:t Eriks, which recommends a maximum height of 60 cm for a retaining wall. The height will be 60 cm on the rounded part of the retaining wall in the picture, but on the straight part, which is perpendicular to the round part, it needs to be up to 1 meter!
Unfortunately, I've already purchased most of the wall stones, and changing the stones is not an option. It's worth noting that all material behind the wall is draining material, meaning no soil at all for at least 10 meters back, which should prevent frost heave at least?
So now the question is:
Is it completely impossible to achieve that part despite the recommended maximum height of 60 cm??
What are my options? Pour a foundation? Geogrid? Seal the stones with thin mortar? Cast concrete anchor bolts into the wall stones and a concrete block behind? Reinforce the wall stones vertically? Horizontally?
If you let the stone wall start at a height of 40cm, then it's only 60 cm.
I don't mean literally. But if you let something else provide the support for the first 40 cm, like casting a concrete wall or L support, which you then cover with your stone, which then continues up to the final height.
If you start the stone wall at a height of 40 cm then it will only be 60 cm.
I don't mean that literally. But if you let something else provide the support for the first 40 cm, such as casting a concrete wall or L-support, which you then cover with your stone, continuing up to the final height.
It sounds like we are onto something.
Just a few things that I was thinking about:
By cladding, I assume you mean anchoring a stone on the outer surface of the cast wall?
The cladding should align with the rest of the wall, which means the wall will rest on the "cladding," can it handle that?
10% of the wall should be below ground. Isn't that meant as support at the bottom? Can this be solved by casting a toe in the foundation of the concrete wall?
You will not have any soil or anything else behind, so there will be no frost pressure. The recommendations are for when there is soil that gets wet, resulting in freezing behind, which then pushes the wall out. It takes a few years but will happen eventually. The most important thing is that there is a stable foundation that it stands on; that's where it can fail. Make sure there is about 0.5 solid space outside the wall. A 10 cm thick concrete slab with a couple of reinforcing bars, preferably 0.5 in on the backside as well, sloping slightly inward, forming an L-profile with a double foot. It will not move. Preferably, use a fabric or Platon behind so any potential water is removed from it; it might seem a bit excessive with the foundation, but if you don't want to redo it, think carefully.
You will not have any soil or anything else behind, so there will be no frost heave. The recommendations are for when there is soil that gets wet with freezing behind as a result, then the wall gets pushed out, takes a few years but it will happen. The most important thing is that there is a stable bottom on which it stands, that is where it will be able to calve, make sure there is about 0.5m solid outside the wall. A 10cm thick concrete footing with a couple of bars in it, preferably 0.5m on the backside too, sloping slightly inward, then it becomes an L-profile with a double foot, it will not move. Preferably a fabric or platon behind so any water will be diverted away from it, may seem a bit overkill, with the bottom but if you don't want to redo it, think it through carefully
It sounds good that there are good conditions behind the wall so that I avoid frost heave.
Do you mean that I can build the wall as high (1 meter) because of this? So if I cast the footing you described? I'm not quite sure how it becomes an L-profile. As I understand your description, it's a 10cm thick footing that is wide enough to extend 50cm outside the wall and preferably 50cm inside as well. But the "lip" that exists in an L-profile, I'm not quite sure what you mean...
According to you, you should have draining masses behind and not soil, then you are definitely on the right side. An L-profile only has a plate on the inside, in my opinion, way too short, so that it doesn't stick out at the front and it should then hold back the masses on the inside that press down that part, sometimes it's not enough since it's mostly soil masses placed there, it can freeze behind, which is disastrous for an L-profile as it will push the whole thing out after a few years, maybe maaaaany years, but it will. So having a foot that extends on the front and back and is about 20-30 cm below ground increases the stability against shifting by about 90%, you can never be sure, but almost. The brackets on the stone with an air gap are then protected by a fabric or platon so that there can't be freezing behind, normally for an L-profile is a draining layer of about 30 cm of crushed stone behind and fabric against soil.
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