I'm building a new interior wall, and apparently, things aren't quite straight and square in my house. When I place the drywall panels on the floor and push them together sideways, there's a significant gap at the bottom even though they are flush at the top. Is this a problem?

Should you rather tilt them slightly to minimize the gaps sideways (but then have larger gaps at the bottom)? Intuitively, it feels better to have them standing steadily on the floor, but maybe that's the wrong thinking?

How do you make a neat seam between the panels if there's a 5 mm gap?
 
Gaps at the bottom rarely matter, they are normally covered by the skirting board. The boards also don't need to rest on the floor, they hang perfectly well on the screws.

If you still want an even bottom edge, cut the board slightly so it stands evenly against the floor. You should absolutely not start experimenting with slanted boards or gaps in other places.
 
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Stenben86
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Paul-Staffanstorp
The important thing is that you get them snug against the ceiling...
 
Paul-Staffanstorp said:
The important thing is that you get them close to the ceiling...
Close to the ceiling for what..? :)
 
Paul-Staffanstorp
FredrikR said:
Close to the ceiling for what..? :)
Because it becomes significantly smoother when everything needs to be painted, to avoid messing around with latex caulk and putty... :rolleyes:
 
Ceiling moldings..?
Or is it not popular down south!? ;)
 
Paul-Staffanstorp
FredrikR said:
Ceiling moldings..?
Or is it not something popular down south!? ;)

Eehhh.... nooooo..... It is not... that's out of the question !!

Ceiling moldings feel a bit old and like something used to hide poorly cut drywall or wallpapers. :S
 
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JP500
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If I interpret your answers correctly, it's better to place them closely side by side, so that they are edge to edge all the way. It's better to have gaps at the top and bottom, and the panels do not necessarily need to be supported by the floor.

By the way, we will have both ceiling and floor molding since they are present on the other walls in the room.
 
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asvedulf
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Paul-Staffanstorp
Skogsbullen said:
If I interpret your answers correctly, it is better to push them tightly together sideways, so that they are edge to edge the entire way. It's better to have gaps at the top and bottom, and the panels don't really need to support the floor.

Furthermore, we will be having both ceiling and floor molding since there are such moldings on the other walls in the room.
Then you don't need to worry about gaps at the top and bottom, and as you stated, it's better to have them aligned at the joints for the best putty result.
 
The most important thing is a small gap in the corners and a small gap towards the ceiling (if you're not planning to have a cornice). Fill the remaining gaps with gypsum plaster before you do the spackling (or before the painter does the spackling, if you're like me and hate everything related to painting work).
 
Here's how I make a smooth fitting joint along the floor (even with uneven ones). You take the board and place it exactly as it should stand, i.e., vertically and against the adjacent board (i.e., no gap). Then you take a pencil and place it on the floor, drawing along the entire width of the board.

Now you have a line that shows the floor's contour on the board, and with the drywall plane, it's easy to sand so that the line is an even distance from the edge.
 
Paul-Staffanstorp
v-g said:
This is how I make a smooth fit along the floor (even with uneven floors). You take the board and place it exactly as it should stand, i.e., vertically and against the board next to it (i.e., no gap). Then take a pencil that you lay on the floor and draw along the entire width of the board.

Now you have a line showing the floor's contour on the board, and with a drywall rasp, it is easy to sand away so that the line is at an even distance from the edge.
What's the benefit of this then... :rolleyes::blushing: ...if you're going to have baseboards anyway... :rolleyes:
 
Palle S: Bathroom and typical unnecessary precision ;)

Can't sleep if I've done a sloppy job, you understand :D
 
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Uldis
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Now I have adjusted it so that the gaps between the boards are a maximum of 1 mm, usually less.

What should I do with larger gaps (3-7 mm) in the inner corners where the drywall boards meet the old wall? Putty? Latex caulk?
 
I would use coarse filler. Another alternative is gipsspackel (probably called something else), but I think that might be overkill.

Edit: Gypsum Naturgips is apparently what it's called. http://www.weber.se/2223
 
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