Hello,
it might have been discussed before but.... anyway:
I am going to build an unheated garage on a concrete slab 10970 x 6410.
Now I'm wondering if I can place the sill flush with the outer edge (leca edge beam)
like in this picture
http://www.traguiden.se/upload/CAD-bild/grunder/3D-0312-G56-L.jpg
or if I have to move the sill in a few centimeters
like here
http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_XmC51aJ1LVk/SX2W4MuURCI/AAAAAAAAAfE/icfEu92l_k4/s320/PICT3517.JPG
Advantages / disadvantages???
Your opinions - how did you do it??
Best regards & have a nice evening
Hobbit
it might have been discussed before but.... anyway:
I am going to build an unheated garage on a concrete slab 10970 x 6410.
Now I'm wondering if I can place the sill flush with the outer edge (leca edge beam)
like in this picture
http://www.traguiden.se/upload/CAD-bild/grunder/3D-0312-G56-L.jpg
or if I have to move the sill in a few centimeters
like here
http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_XmC51aJ1LVk/SX2W4MuURCI/AAAAAAAAAfE/icfEu92l_k4/s320/PICT3517.JPG
Advantages / disadvantages???
Your opinions - how did you do it??
Best regards & have a nice evening
Hobbit
Now, take what I write with some reservation for possible inaccuracies. but well... 
Ideally, in terms of load, the load center of the wall should be right above the edge beam.
The edge beam is not happy about also having to handle torsional moments.
So if you have a footing that is 30cm wide and a wall consisting of 195mm studs and plates, it would be better in terms of load to move the wall inward by 5cm.
The cladding and battens (i.e., the air gap) would preferably stick out beyond the foundation.
So if you don't place horizontal studs outside of the vertical framework, then the plate and the vertical studs should align with the foundation.
The picture from blogspot seems to be a house where they plan to place 45mm horizontal studs outside.
Here's what I did:
I placed the plate 45mm inside the edge and then horizontal 45x45mm framework with crossed insulation in order to align the weather barrier with the foundation.
With this, I got a better base for nailing the vertical panel (by then placing the battens right on the horizontal 45x45), broken thermal bridges, the load from the walls fairly centered over the edge beam, and 45 mm more insulation.
In other words, a full score on all points.
Ideally, in terms of load, the load center of the wall should be right above the edge beam.
The edge beam is not happy about also having to handle torsional moments.
So if you have a footing that is 30cm wide and a wall consisting of 195mm studs and plates, it would be better in terms of load to move the wall inward by 5cm.
The cladding and battens (i.e., the air gap) would preferably stick out beyond the foundation.
So if you don't place horizontal studs outside of the vertical framework, then the plate and the vertical studs should align with the foundation.
The picture from blogspot seems to be a house where they plan to place 45mm horizontal studs outside.
Here's what I did:
I placed the plate 45mm inside the edge and then horizontal 45x45mm framework with crossed insulation in order to align the weather barrier with the foundation.
With this, I got a better base for nailing the vertical panel (by then placing the battens right on the horizontal 45x45), broken thermal bridges, the load from the walls fairly centered over the edge beam, and 45 mm more insulation.
In other words, a full score on all points.
Hello Hobbit!
My 10 cents: What Mikael L writes is right and correct in every way. However, it is much more common to place the sill level with the edge of the slab, which is probably mainly because it's not common to add an extra layer on top of the standing framework as Mikael did, but rather to settle for a wind protection board and then nail & air battens and then the panel. In this way, the panel ends up about a batten's thickness outside the base. The cross-braced framework is most common on the inside of the wall.
The cross-braced frame model Mikael L is good as it disrupts thermal bridges, but you will have an unheated space and probably won't insulate at this stage, so you don't benefit much from this extra layer.
So my advice: Do as on Träguiden! The edge beam holds up and you save some work and get a slightly larger internal measurement in the garage. Even if you're not going to insulate the garage now, I think you should consider putting a wind protection board or wind paper and create an air gap behind the exterior panel if you might want to insulate in the future. And if that happens, you can simply insulate between the standing studs from the inside and also complement with a cross-braced framework with, for example, an extra 45mm layer of insulation on the inside of the wall if you want. You can then place the vapor barrier protected between the two frameworks.
Finally: I think the picture you linked to on "blogspot" shows a control sill waiting for prefabricated exterior wall elements to be mounted on top of it. Prefab walls sometimes have a recess at the bottom that kind of overhangs the control sill on both sides, so it's not certain that the standing studs are drawn in from the edge of the slab on the future "Blogspot house".
Good luck with the garage!
My 10 cents: What Mikael L writes is right and correct in every way. However, it is much more common to place the sill level with the edge of the slab, which is probably mainly because it's not common to add an extra layer on top of the standing framework as Mikael did, but rather to settle for a wind protection board and then nail & air battens and then the panel. In this way, the panel ends up about a batten's thickness outside the base. The cross-braced framework is most common on the inside of the wall.
The cross-braced frame model Mikael L is good as it disrupts thermal bridges, but you will have an unheated space and probably won't insulate at this stage, so you don't benefit much from this extra layer.
So my advice: Do as on Träguiden! The edge beam holds up and you save some work and get a slightly larger internal measurement in the garage. Even if you're not going to insulate the garage now, I think you should consider putting a wind protection board or wind paper and create an air gap behind the exterior panel if you might want to insulate in the future. And if that happens, you can simply insulate between the standing studs from the inside and also complement with a cross-braced framework with, for example, an extra 45mm layer of insulation on the inside of the wall if you want. You can then place the vapor barrier protected between the two frameworks.
Finally: I think the picture you linked to on "blogspot" shows a control sill waiting for prefabricated exterior wall elements to be mounted on top of it. Prefab walls sometimes have a recess at the bottom that kind of overhangs the control sill on both sides, so it's not certain that the standing studs are drawn in from the edge of the slab on the future "Blogspot house".
Good luck with the garage!
And I agree with what Jc1972 writes, too ...
If you are going to crossbatten on only one side, I think there is a greater advantage to having it on the inside, as you get an installation layer for electricity and water without having to make holes in the plastic in many places.
It also makes it easier to run the electrical pipes around the corners if you do it right there.
If you are going to crossbatten on only one side, I think there is a greater advantage to having it on the inside, as you get an installation layer for electricity and water without having to make holes in the plastic in many places.
It also makes it easier to run the electrical pipes around the corners if you do it right there.