1. Slab with edge beam, does it work? 2. Edge rule against concrete wall, how to attach?
Hello!
I asked a question in the forum section about Foundation and Basement (http://www.byggahus.se/forum/grund-...grund-tjocklek-pa-kapillarbrytande-lager.html) but I have a couple more problems with the foundation and floor structure. The reason for the radical renovation is that there is impregnated wood in the sill and floor structure. Here's how it's built today:
While I'm at it, I want to get all the beams to the same height, which has differed in the bathroom and hallway. In the hallway, the beams are notched before they are placed on the outer wall, and a couple of them are cracked from the notching inward. I've thought and searched a lot for a solution to mount all the floor beams lower so it becomes the same floor height towards the kitchen and the one I found that I think is best was called a “kantbalk.” Is this a good solution???
Since I will be making adjustments to the roof at the same time, I will change the sill in sections, taking one section per wall stud (is that advisable by the way?). The impregnation has contaminated the lower part of the wall studs, so I will replace a section of the stud and then screw or nail a new stud onto the old one and the lower section all the way from the new sill up to the new rafter, which the old wall stud doesn't reach either.
In this case, the idea of a kantbalk might be good to tie the sill pieces together. But is a kantbalk really a good way to mount the floor structure? If you screw and glue such a beam along the inside of the sill, will it hold for the floor structure? My idea is to use joist hangers for the floor beams.
Am I causing trouble for myself by building this way?
At the other end towards the house wall, the floor structure is laid on a line that seems nailed to the house's sill. It's hard to see exactly, but it seems so. Can a new stud be attached to the concrete wall with paper in between and anchored to the wall with screws and plugs instead? Both will lower the floor structure and I want to use at least a 195 stud instead of the 160mm high studs that have been there so far.
Preferably, I would like to remove the two supports and longitudinal beam that support the middle of the floor structure today because it will be cramped enough as it is to maneuver around in there if work needs to be done on the plumbing. But can this be done with a 270 span on the floor structure, and is a 195mm stud sufficient? A washing machine and dryer will be against one short wall, and there I thought to use c-c 30 cm for extra load-bearing, otherwise c-c 60. Anyone knowledgeable and has advice?
I asked a question in the forum section about Foundation and Basement (http://www.byggahus.se/forum/grund-...grund-tjocklek-pa-kapillarbrytande-lager.html) but I have a couple more problems with the foundation and floor structure. The reason for the radical renovation is that there is impregnated wood in the sill and floor structure. Here's how it's built today:
While I'm at it, I want to get all the beams to the same height, which has differed in the bathroom and hallway. In the hallway, the beams are notched before they are placed on the outer wall, and a couple of them are cracked from the notching inward. I've thought and searched a lot for a solution to mount all the floor beams lower so it becomes the same floor height towards the kitchen and the one I found that I think is best was called a “kantbalk.” Is this a good solution???
Since I will be making adjustments to the roof at the same time, I will change the sill in sections, taking one section per wall stud (is that advisable by the way?). The impregnation has contaminated the lower part of the wall studs, so I will replace a section of the stud and then screw or nail a new stud onto the old one and the lower section all the way from the new sill up to the new rafter, which the old wall stud doesn't reach either.
In this case, the idea of a kantbalk might be good to tie the sill pieces together. But is a kantbalk really a good way to mount the floor structure? If you screw and glue such a beam along the inside of the sill, will it hold for the floor structure? My idea is to use joist hangers for the floor beams.
Am I causing trouble for myself by building this way?
At the other end towards the house wall, the floor structure is laid on a line that seems nailed to the house's sill. It's hard to see exactly, but it seems so. Can a new stud be attached to the concrete wall with paper in between and anchored to the wall with screws and plugs instead? Both will lower the floor structure and I want to use at least a 195 stud instead of the 160mm high studs that have been there so far.
Preferably, I would like to remove the two supports and longitudinal beam that support the middle of the floor structure today because it will be cramped enough as it is to maneuver around in there if work needs to be done on the plumbing. But can this be done with a 270 span on the floor structure, and is a 195mm stud sufficient? A washing machine and dryer will be against one short wall, and there I thought to use c-c 30 cm for extra load-bearing, otherwise c-c 60. Anyone knowledgeable and has advice?
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I'm an amateur, but intuitively it doesn't seem like a good solution to attach the floor joists in that way. Considering that the current floor joists have actually cracked, it does mean there's a significant downward force. If you're going to remove the support in the middle, nah, I think it might be too much. The entire floor joist would then hang on a 45mm high glue/screw joint.
Isn't it possible to attach a board lower down on the concrete beam/foundation wall and let the joists rest on that? A bit of sill paper between the board and the foundation wall, of course. Do that in combination with your solution, and you're set!
Regarding the span, I think 270cm and a 195 beam is fine. I have 420cm and 210 beams in my house, but there are annoying vibrations when you walk heavily with your heels or when a bunch of kids are playing. If you're going to change them, go with 210 beams; price-wise, there probably isn't much of a difference.
Isn't it possible to attach a board lower down on the concrete beam/foundation wall and let the joists rest on that? A bit of sill paper between the board and the foundation wall, of course. Do that in combination with your solution, and you're set!
Regarding the span, I think 270cm and a 195 beam is fine. I have 420cm and 210 beams in my house, but there are annoying vibrations when you walk heavily with your heels or when a bunch of kids are playing. If you're going to change them, go with 210 beams; price-wise, there probably isn't much of a difference.
Beijer has a calculation program that I wasn't aware of and that I just tested. Built in the classic way with beams on top of the walls, 120x45 is sufficient with a central support, and 170x45 without. Maybe I should opt to keep the central support and arrange the plumbing (which partially needs to be redone here anyway) to make it easier to crawl in the foundation. Since I like to make things a bit sturdier when I'm at it, it feels like 170 joists might make for a sturdier floor than 120, especially considering the washing machine.
However, the question remains about the bearing points. Another thought I've been considering is making cutouts in the outer wall (concrete block) for each beam. There's some hassle in achieving a reasonably even surface to place the beam on (minimum 45 mm bearing length according to the calculation program), but I would gain height without making cutouts at the ends and without fiddling with odd mounting solutions. After all, it's not that many cutouts involved.
Does anyone know more?
However, the question remains about the bearing points. Another thought I've been considering is making cutouts in the outer wall (concrete block) for each beam. There's some hassle in achieving a reasonably even surface to place the beam on (minimum 45 mm bearing length according to the calculation program), but I would gain height without making cutouts at the ends and without fiddling with odd mounting solutions. After all, it's not that many cutouts involved.
Does anyone know more?