I have an existing joist floor with floor joists spaced at cc600. Due to the height, I am planning to lay 17mm rough cladding (with underfloor heating coils between) and then on top of this, 12mm chipboard flooring, followed by foam, and finally a laminate floor. But I'm a little unsure if this is enough? I read that you should have at least 28mm slat paneling and 22mm chipboard flooring. What do you think?
And should there be a vapor barrier before the laminate flooring?
And should there be a vapor barrier before the laminate flooring?
Hi. I am in the process of installing underfloor heating on the upper floor and on the advice of an experienced carpenter, I am laying 21x95 gles and on top of that 12mm chipboard flooring.
If you're going to lay a 17mm tubing anyway, you might as well go for a grooved floor chipboard, as it builds the least.
Is it because the floor can sag? What if I add floor joists to cc300 instead?Oldboy said:
Otherwise, the floor will be too high for my doors
Or I will have to plane down the floor beams...
But hello!
Lattice panel 28x70 mm is used in the ceiling (and sometimes for air gaps in walls) but never in the floor!
On floor joists c-c 600, 28 mm flooring fits. It will be stable and good.
Why do you need floor heating up there, where the floor is already warmed from the ground floor?
Lattice panel 28x70 mm is used in the ceiling (and sometimes for air gaps in walls) but never in the floor!
On floor joists c-c 600, 28 mm flooring fits. It will be stable and good.
Why do you need floor heating up there, where the floor is already warmed from the ground floor?
Yes, for flooring, I consider 22 mm chipboard as the minimum (cc 60 cm and without milled grooves in the chipboard), or much better tongue-and-groove floorboards as KoW mentions.
I don't understand the thinking in today's constructions where floor beams are over-dimensioned but the actual floor is allowed to be uncomfortably thin and weak, losing the little load-bearing capacity it has if it gets wet for an extended period, such as in the case of leakage from underfloor heating. (Soaked particle boards have about as much load-bearing capacity as digestive biscuits dipped in coffee.)
If underfloor heating is a must on the upper floor, which should reasonably have a warm floor below, it's probably appropriate to, for example, reduce cc, or to build a stiffer/load-bearing floor between the joists. I would never use 12 mm chipboard unless the cc is 0 mm. I used that when I was little and built train tracks... Even then, I didn't dare step on the chipboard without knowing there was a load-bearing rule directly underneath.
It seems, however, that you have 29 mm to play with (17 + 12). It's much better to use a material that is 29 mm thick rather than two flimsy thin ones. I believe I've understood that grooved 22 mm chipboard on cc 60 is considered okay, but it's really at the limit, and any deviations/misinstallations, etc., cannot be managed. If you can fix cc 30, both grooved chipboard and the first method you suggested (17 + 12) will probably suffice. However, you'll need to be careful with the "load-bearing" 17 mm raw wood and ensure there are no weakening knots anywhere.
I don't understand the thinking in today's constructions where floor beams are over-dimensioned but the actual floor is allowed to be uncomfortably thin and weak, losing the little load-bearing capacity it has if it gets wet for an extended period, such as in the case of leakage from underfloor heating. (Soaked particle boards have about as much load-bearing capacity as digestive biscuits dipped in coffee.)
If underfloor heating is a must on the upper floor, which should reasonably have a warm floor below, it's probably appropriate to, for example, reduce cc, or to build a stiffer/load-bearing floor between the joists. I would never use 12 mm chipboard unless the cc is 0 mm. I used that when I was little and built train tracks... Even then, I didn't dare step on the chipboard without knowing there was a load-bearing rule directly underneath.
It seems, however, that you have 29 mm to play with (17 + 12). It's much better to use a material that is 29 mm thick rather than two flimsy thin ones. I believe I've understood that grooved 22 mm chipboard on cc 60 is considered okay, but it's really at the limit, and any deviations/misinstallations, etc., cannot be managed. If you can fix cc 30, both grooved chipboard and the first method you suggested (17 + 12) will probably suffice. However, you'll need to be careful with the "load-bearing" 17 mm raw wood and ensure there are no weakening knots anywhere.