Fill in 2.95x1.27m hole in wall, how?

[oskee]

Hello,
As mentioned, I have a hole in the bedroom leading to a side attic/crawl space of about 2.95x1.27m that I need to close up since I need the storage there.

However, it's just cut out, so it has blunt ends and about a 0.3m frame around the wall and ceiling.

I was thinking of using 45x90 studs to create a frame and then placing studs in between with C-C 0.6m.

After that, I was planning to cover it with 12mm particle board, then smooth it with plaster.

What do you think, am I on the right track? (It's my first house and biggest project so far.)

 

[MathiasS]

A picture would help. Skimming on particle board doesn't sound right. Gypsum is usually used as a base for paint or wallpaper....

 

[oskee]

Oki. Unfortunately, no camera unpacked since we've recently moved. But paint might work. We intend to just roll it white later, so chipboard should work. Also, that wall is going to become a rear wall in a wardrobe eventually as we plan to install sliding doors in the bedroom.

 

[stoif]

I would use 45*70 studs with drywall on top. OSB behind the drywall if you ever plan to mount something on the wall. Fiber tape between the old wall and the drywall to avoid cracks.

I think chipboard moves more than drywall, which means a greater risk of cracks.

 

[oskee]

As mentioned, it will be the inner wall of a closet, so I want something good to screw into. But as mentioned, maybe add a layer of drywall on top.

How should the outermost boards be placed compared to the wall that is there today? Should you leave them a few millimeters more inside (then fill with joint compound) or place them edge to edge directly?

 

[stoif]

Set it as well as you can in life, but better a millimeter further in than a mm too far out. It's usually easier to even out with putty.

 

[vanpire]

Why not install OSB/chipboard flush with the old wall and then plaster from wall to wall?
Then you avoid problems with the seam between the old wall section and the new wall.

 

[Kurtivan]

The wall should be well insulated?

 

[oskee]

Hi, it hasn't been pulled from there when it's been open, so I will wait with isolating. It can be done afterwards.

Another basic question. Should you pre-drill the studs beforehand? I was thinking of using 90-100mm wood screws.

 

[JOW]

It depends on how long the unthreaded section of the screw is and what type of head the screw has.

Countersunk head tends to sink into the wood without pressing the rule against the substrate (when the threads are gripping the piece to be fastened).

Flat head works better without pre-drilling.

For strength, it doesn't matter which head, but it's easier to get the joints tightened with pre-drilling.

If you have two screwdrivers or a drill and screwdriver, it doesn't take many seconds to take the time to pre-drill.

 

[Macarus]

I have fastened quite a few 100x6 with countersunk heads without pre-drilling. It's no problem. Grooved tip helps. It's mainly at the end grain where there is some risk of splitting, but it works there most of the time.

The advantage of countersunk heads is that they disappear into the wood.

I think you would need to be pulling something very heavy together to encounter the problems that JOW describes.

 

[JOW]

No, but hard wood is enough...