Failed casting, how to fix

[Perk]

That's how I wish my staircase had looked...

Well, it's time to see how serious they are when they see the staircase!

 

[Mats]

I see some challenges with making it tight enough, but one option to save the staircase could be to cover it with tiles intended for outdoor use.

 

[BiFuel]

Those of you who know, how do you "filter" out air pockets? I'm about to cast a staircase at home soon and would gratefully accept all tips. What do you fill the small air bubbles with (assuming I can't completely avoid them)?

Can you really safely remove the form after just one day? Or the same day? I'd rather not have everything fall out on me

 

[Elkludde]

Those of you who know, how do you "filter" out air pockets? I'm about to cast a staircase at home and welcome all tips. How do you fill in the small air bubbles (assuming I can't completely avoid them)?

Is it really safe to remove the molds after just one day? Or the same day? I don't want it all to fall out on me

If you're careful, you can remove the molds the same day, but use casting sparingly with water and tamp it well. It also depends on the reinforcement and the weather, so water it well after.

 

[sj6]

This is how it should look when the stairs are properly done. When we shape and cast, we always remove the form the same day and scrub/trowel the stairs. If you remove the form too late, it's very difficult to trowel away air holes etc. Most can be fixed, but yours looks really bad. I would have chipped it away and redone it. A46 is not a good solution. Partly because it gets patchy. Then there is a significant risk that after each winter you will have to patch the stairs due to frost splitting. Just a lot of hassle. Redo it right. Hope it works out.

Oh, damn that's gorgeous! How do you get the nice, chamfered edges without bubbles anywhere? What do you use to build the form?

 

[BiFuel]

Beveled edges were something even I managed to fix the first time I tried Triangular list 22 mm which I nailed into formplyfa.

Sent from my GT-I9000 using Byggahus

 

[Jimmy N]

On this staircase, we shaped with formwork plywood on the sides and with 45x170 for the steps. Triangular slats inside. Air holes cannot be avoided, even if you vibrate the concrete. Therefore, you need to filter these out before the concrete sets. Edges, etc. are brushed with, for example, a radiator brush.

 

[Locke]

It is indeed possible to fill the mold without blemishes and bubbles. It's all about the right consistency, correct concrete composition, and most importantly the right technique.

We cast a staircase at home the other day with an XF3, dmax 16, 120 mm slump. Perfect result despite minimal vibration (you don't want to vibrate frost-resistant concrete).

 

[Elkludde]

It is indeed possible to fill the mold without casting defects and bubbles. It's all about the right consistency, right concrete composition, and above all, the right technique.

We recently cast a stairway at home with an XF3, dmax 16, 120 mm slump. Perfect result despite minimal vibro (you don't want to vibrate frost-resistant concrete).

So trueIt is indeed possible without holes and bubbles if you don't want to vibrate, you can tap on the mold to compress it

 

[BiFuel]

Should frost-resistant concrete not be vibrated at all? What happens then?

 

[Locke]

In frost-resistant concrete, a prescribed air content is required. An air-entraining agent is added at the factory, which creates a lot of small air bubbles. They are mostly invisible to the eye, but they create microscopic voids where water can expand when it freezes. To avoid destroying those fine bubbles, you don’t want to vibrate the concrete too vigorously.