Double sill plate and wall plate

[Hobbit]

As I will soon start building the garage frame which will be 7m x 11m, and will mostly be working alone, I plan to use double sill plates and top plates and build the wall in sections of max 3m x 2.5m that I can lift by myself. Double sill plates mostly because I think it would be good to have a pressure-treated sill plate at the bottom. Double top plates to connect the individual wall sections after lifting.

Has anyone done this?
Experiences?
Tips?

Best regards,
Hobbit

 

[JOW]

Depending on the dimensions of your intended top plate, I would rather choose a thicker plank instead of two thinner ones, as you'll get more insulation. Additionally, if you think in terms of modules, you can ensure that your rafters are reasonably centered on the posts in the wall. If they're positioned directly over the post, a vertical plank in the top plate is essentially unnecessary.

Regarding the pressure-treated sill, I'm doubtful; what kind of foundation do you have? An insulated slab on grade? If so, skip the pressure-treated sill. You should use sill insulation/sill protection; there are various options, google it.

 

[Mikael_L]

Double sill seems absurd.
If you want pressure-treated wood there, then have a sill of treated, period. The standing studs can be attached just as easily to treated sill if untreated.
Often, pressure-treated sill is avoided because it emits a bad smell when it gets damp. So it's better to moisture-proof the sill, and then treated wood isn't needed anymore.

Double top plates you want to have to connect sections (using overlap), if I understand you correctly?
I wouldn't do that either, it just creates more thermal bridges and higher lumber costs and more construction work. Instead, I would be satisfied with nailing together with a scab board and/or nail plate, or placing a bearer under the top plate and possibly overlap the joints of bearer/top plate.

When I built the garage, I actually skipped the top plate entirely and just used a bearer instead, on the recommendation of a carpenter friend (less thermal bridge).
http://www.byggahus.se/forum/smahus-garage-friggebod-m-m/100212-snik-garaget-3.html#62

Yes, these were my opinions, they probably aren't the same as everyone else's opinions...

 

[Mikael_L]

Also, if you think in terms of modules, you can make sure to have the trusses reasonably centered on the posts in the wall. If you're centered over the post, essentially no upright beam is needed in the top plate.

Yes, not even "essentially" but "it is simply not needed"!

Though that was perhaps a bit too categorically stated... if the load-bearing beam has some other structural function, such as supporting the floor in an intermediate floor, then there are different loads than the trusses to consider.

I know someone who planned a cabin construction - a small cabin to be erected where electricity and everything else was absent - and under time pressure. He planned to make wall modules 1.2 meters wide, where the middle stud was a regular 45mm thick one and those on each side were 22mm planks. And during assembly, he planned to just screw the 22mm planks together with a bunch of screws and a bit of PUR tape in between. It would thus be 45mm wide then.

 

[JOW]

If you want the standing plank of the hammarband to hold the modules together, or if it is needed for some other reason, it can be installed after the modules have been erected.

 

[Hobbit]

I may have expressed myself incorrectly (forgot the syll protection which in my opinion is a given)
Therefore, I am attaching a simple sketch (green = wall section)

Now my thoughts are clearer, I hope

 

[Hobbit]

And to make it even clearer
I was thinking of building one this big
http://www.byggstommar.se/prog/index.php?loadmodel=garage92m2_at_byggstommar_punkt_se.public.png
in this way
www.alltombostad.se/monteringsanvisning-983004/fil-files/Monteringsanvisning Byggstommar.pdf
but in loose timber according to K-drawings from the architect
but the main principle is to get a 2.5m x 11m wall
in manageable sections ..........
Best regards
Hobbit

 

[Mikael_L]

I would most likely not have done that. I think it seems like a pretty bad solution.

How wide sections are you planning to make?
How clear are you planning to make them? Interior boards? Insulation?, plastic? exterior panel?

Why are you going to have a k-drawing made (pay for it!)?

 

[Hobbit]

I most likely would not have done so. I think it seems like a rather poor solution.

How wide sections are you planning to make?
How finished are you planning to make them? Inner boards? Insulation? Plastic? Outer panel?

Why are you having a K-drawing made (paying for it!)?

Try lifting a 2.5 x 11 frame (only weighs 380kg roughly) ALL ALONE !!!
Then the solution doesn't seem so bad anymore - does it!!
By the way, it only applies to the frame without internal or external cladding or insulation.
3.8kg per lpm 45x145 stud
4 sections of 2400 and one of 1400 should do the trick and weigh around 70kg each
And K-drawing ALREADY EXISTS so the whole problem is "just" dividing a 380kg wall
that is 11m long into manageable sections.

And no, I can't call the neighbor farmer with a tractor or hire a crane truck or do
anything else funny – like hiring a bunch of Poles........

 

[Mikael_L]

Try lifting a 2.5 x 11 frame (weighs only 380kg roughly)

45x220 -joists?

 

[JOW]

I'm not a professional carpenter, but building modules without putting anything on the outside or inside doesn't seem beneficial to me. You might as well build it on-site.

But with paneling and so on, it becomes a different story; you've made some tasks easier when the wall is lying down.

 

[andersmc]

You must not use treated lumber in the framework. You can omit that part of the base right away.

 

[Hobbit]

You cannot use treated wood in the frame. You can remove that part of the sill immediately.

Aha ..... right:

Are these guys way off track then?
http://www.svenskabyggvaror.se/produkter.htm

By the way, the topic has been discussed before
http://www.byggahus.se/forum/losvirke-timmerhus/23459-syll.html

 

[Hobbit]

You cannot use treated wood in the frame. You can leave out that part of the sill.

right then:



http://www.traguiden.se/TGtemplates/popup2spalt.aspx?id=4506

even Träguiden is wrong:

"If the sill is made of impregnated wood, it should be in wood protection class NTR/A or NTR/AB and should have a maximum moisture content of 18% at the time of installation. The impregnated sill should also be moisture-separated from untreated wood, for example, standing timber studs."

 

[Mikael_L]

Do you have absolutely no way of getting an extra helping hand during the day of the framework erection?