It's okay, now
You should insert the karmskruven from the outside, drilling takes place after you have positioned the frame in place. So try to adjust the frame the way you want it; the top of the frame can be secured by placing wedges there, and below with the threshold piece in place, you can also wedge it in. Then you have a baseline to gently nudge the frame in all directions, just follow along with the wedges. If you're a bit careful and want to test, you can tighten the wedges and insert the door to see how it behaves, a bit tricky but doable. If you're satisfied, drill into the hole and get a center for the karmskruven, insert it, and then proceed to the next one.S snowjim said:
Sometimes it goes a little fast
What's tricky is: the side pieces can be upright but everything is skewed, the upper piece must be level otherwise the door won't fit in, it gets stuck at the top or bottom, which means you have to make sure it's right from the start. Once the screws are in place, you can't raise or lower them, just turn a little. When you screw in (the loose part of the screw should go out) (it's like a bit of a reverse moment) on the hinge side, you have to release a little on the other side at the top so the door lifts on the lock side, sometimes more adjustments are needed than you think.
What's tricky is: the side pieces can be upright but everything is skewed, the upper piece must be level otherwise the door won't fit in, it gets stuck at the top or bottom, which means you have to make sure it's right from the start. Once the screws are in place, you can't raise or lower them, just turn a little. When you screw in (the loose part of the screw should go out) (it's like a bit of a reverse moment) on the hinge side, you have to release a little on the other side at the top so the door lifts on the lock side, sometimes more adjustments are needed than you think.
Must and must. It's possible to get right angles even if it's slanting. But it's probably easier to set the threshold level and the frame vertical, sideways I mean then.
Thanks for the information!
We have now installed 2 doors!
With the first door, we missed leveling the threshold and top board, but it still worked. However, there is a maximum of 1 mm gap between the outermost part of the door and the frame. I'm not sure if the door will expand, but if it does, it might scrape there. I also don't see how I can adjust this since the jamb screws are fixed in place. What I mean is that when you close the door, it looks fine on the hinge side, but on the latch side, there is a maximum of 1 mm gap against the top plate.
Initially, I drilled the holes from the inside, but this tended to make existing holes look unsightly, so instead, we first drilled through the center and then finished from the back of the frame, which resulted in much cleaner holes.
The second door went much quicker... until we had to saw into the top of the wall; unfortunately, a miscalculation was made, and the jigsaw blade tended to bend. A while later, using both a jigsaw and a sawzall, it turned out okay.
This time we ensured that the threshold and top plate were also level, which resulted in a perfect finish =D
For us, it was easier to drill the holes first, position, level the frame, and then screw it in place. If it needed to be raised from the floor on either end, we placed spacers there. Adjustments were then made using the 180° spirit level, making it easy to see which screws needed changing.
The interesting part is that one of my Hultaforst levels seems completely off. It happened several times that it showed different readings even in the same spot. We did a quick test where we checked the level with Hultafors 1, flipped it to see if it showed the same, and then did the same with Hultafors 2. It turned out that Hultafors 1 changed its reading depending on which direction it was facing!? We rotated it 180 degrees horizontally. Hultafors 2, which is in orange plastic, showed consistent readings regardless of how it was turned. I'll show some pictures of it tomorrow if I get the time.
We have now installed 2 doors!
With the first door, we missed leveling the threshold and top board, but it still worked. However, there is a maximum of 1 mm gap between the outermost part of the door and the frame. I'm not sure if the door will expand, but if it does, it might scrape there. I also don't see how I can adjust this since the jamb screws are fixed in place. What I mean is that when you close the door, it looks fine on the hinge side, but on the latch side, there is a maximum of 1 mm gap against the top plate.
Initially, I drilled the holes from the inside, but this tended to make existing holes look unsightly, so instead, we first drilled through the center and then finished from the back of the frame, which resulted in much cleaner holes.
The second door went much quicker... until we had to saw into the top of the wall; unfortunately, a miscalculation was made, and the jigsaw blade tended to bend. A while later, using both a jigsaw and a sawzall, it turned out okay.
This time we ensured that the threshold and top plate were also level, which resulted in a perfect finish =D
For us, it was easier to drill the holes first, position, level the frame, and then screw it in place. If it needed to be raised from the floor on either end, we placed spacers there. Adjustments were then made using the 180° spirit level, making it easy to see which screws needed changing.
The interesting part is that one of my Hultaforst levels seems completely off. It happened several times that it showed different readings even in the same spot. We did a quick test where we checked the level with Hultafors 1, flipped it to see if it showed the same, and then did the same with Hultafors 2. It turned out that Hultafors 1 changed its reading depending on which direction it was facing!? We rotated it 180 degrees horizontally. Hultafors 2, which is in orange plastic, showed consistent readings regardless of how it was turned. I'll show some pictures of it tomorrow if I get the time.
It's just a matter of adjusting with the karmskruv. That's the purpose of them.
I see, but how can you adjust the top board with the karmskruvar? They only seem to affect vertically, not horizontally on the top board?
I have posted a new thread about the discrepancies on the spirit level here: https://www.byggahus.se/forum/threads/defekt-hultafors-vattenpass.299776/
I have posted a new thread about the discrepancies on the spirit level here: https://www.byggahus.se/forum/threads/defekt-hultafors-vattenpass.299776/
Yes, if you adjust the hinge side at the top, the outer corner of the door moves downward. The door won't be plumb, but it will be centered in the frame. You need to adjust equally on both sides so as not to affect the width of the frame.
The frame screws adjustment is used to make the frame's sidings straight. To some extent, you can also adjust the gap between the door and the frame (on the sides), but the top and threshold resist, so there's a risk that the sides just bow instead. If the door leaf is not centered in the frame, it's the hinges that should be adjusted. I don't know how to do it with modern snap hinges, but with old hinges, you bend them with a special tool (100 kr), thereby deforming the hinge so that the leaf moves.S snowjim said:
Regarding the level, it sounds like it has been damaged so that the spirit vial is out of position. It may also be a factory defect, but it seems strange that it slipped through quality control.
Straight in this context is preferably perpendicular to the threshold and lintel rather than vertical. These should indeed be level, and then the side pieces become vertical.
Remember. Stretch two strings from the outer edges of the frame across the opening in a cross. The strings should touch each other in the middle. If they don't, you need to adjust one of the frame sides in or out. Then you know that the frame is level and the door will close tightly.
With an old house and old doors, I have tried to make them as perpendicular and level as possible, but I've focused on making the hinge side level and then adjusted the rest. However, the windows I installed followed the wall and were not level (though perpendicular).
The string method was smart.
However, I think wedges work well; I can imagine frame screws work well for, for example, a new front door, but for interior doors and windows, it seems a bit overkill?
Sometimes, though, I think this kind of thing is over-theorized.
The string method was smart.
However, I think wedges work well; I can imagine frame screws work well for, for example, a new front door, but for interior doors and windows, it seems a bit overkill?
Sometimes, though, I think this kind of thing is over-theorized.
Electronics enthusiast
· 2 457 posts
My tip for installing interior doors is to attach the hinge side of the frame and then reattach the door and install the other side of the frame after the door. I think this provides the best and fastest results.