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320 replies
50k views
320 replies
Does Isover's spacer sleeve provide an air gap (facade board)?
Read post 25; it is completely correct. Go as you planned, there will be no problems.P Prosit said:I looked at some panel boards (double-beveled tongue and groove) that I have lying around, and there are two milled grooves on the back about 10 mm wide each and equally deep, so it might not be as tight between the gaps between the nailing battens as I thought.
The question is, should one be satisfied with that and thus only use horizontal nailing battens (vertical panel)?
That thing with 100 years is a bit of overkill but must say something about tried and tested methods. If there are such grooves in the panel, it will probably ventilate; they are probably not made just for fun but have a meaning to them.P Prosit said:I checked some panel boards (double tongue and groove) that I have lying around, and there are two milled grooves on the back about 10 mm wide each and equally deep, so it might not be as tight between the spaces between the nail battens as I thought.
The question is, should one settle for that and only use horizontal nail battens (vertical panel)?
Add up the surface area of your 10*10 mm on a wall and you will soon see that you probably have enough surface area for the air to ventilate through.P Prosit said:I checked some panel boards (dubbelfasspont) that I have lying around and there are two milled grooves on the backside about 10 mm wide each and just as deep, so it might not be as tight between the spaces between the nailing battens as I thought.
The question is, should one be satisfied with that and therefore only use horizontal nailing battens (standing panel)?
Of course, they do not work with horizontal battens only as the ventilation, which is important, would disappear. Instead, you have a single-step sealed house that theoretically works but is much more sensitive to damage and construction errors, etc.
It doesn't get quite that bad. The air gap prevents the insulation from coming into contact with the panel. 'Ventilation' does not mean there should be a constant airflow behind the panel; rather, the gaps and grooves that exist are sufficient to dry out the inside of the panel between heavy rains.
no, you are wrong, what are you basing this on, have you ever worked in the construction sector or studied building physics.X xdigger said:
40mm cavity width is good if you can achieve it, 25mm is okay.
And having vertical battens is extremely important to create sufficient air circulation.
If you go from a 40mm to a 5mm cavity width, the drying time increases by 10 times.
That's extremely significant.
this is not controversial but is supported by all research studies
it works with both horizontal and vertical nailing rules.H hul said:no you are wrong, what do you base this on, have you ever worked in the construction sector or studied building physics.
40mm gap width is good if you can get it, 25mm is okay.
And having a vertical batten is extremely important to create sufficient air circulation.
if you go from 40mm down to 5mm gap width, the drying time increases by 10 times.
that's extremely much.
this is not controversial but supported by all research studies
you can't say that a real house follows what is written in building physics books.
and if you think so, then you haven't worked in the construction sector for very long.
It doesn't matter if real houses follow what's in the books or not.SBH said:
The fact is still that smaller air gaps significantly increase drying time.
And it's important to have a vertical batten to increase air circulation.
Whether it is followed or not doesn't matter, it's still a fact.
Research has shown that air gaps less than 10mm have a significantly limited moisture transport ability and therefore long drying times.