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320 replies
50k views
320 replies
Does Isover's spacer sleeve provide an air gap (facade board)?
Unreasonable question, how am I supposed to know how much moisture your facade lets through? Your construction could be a real botch job, which would obviously require greater air turnover.R roli said:Research provides figures on how "good" the air turnover is with different designs. But it doesn't give a value for what is needed to avoid problems? One solution is about 3 times better when it comes to air turnover, but that doesn't say it all; better is one thing, but what is needed? Could it be that all the variants work, just to varying degrees of effectiveness? It may just need 10, 50, or even more or less air turnovers for it to function. What is necessary is what is interesting; knowing that option 1 is better than the other two alternatives is interesting, but it's not the most critical factor in the whole, as it is not disclosed......
If you don't ventilate away the moisture, you'll end up with a single-sealed construction, and I think we can all agree that's not what you want.
It's largely about how much moisture gets in. There is much debate about whether it's necessary or even harmful to ventilate attics.
Moisture that is added must come out, everyone agrees on that. I claim that the roof is more sealed than the exterior walls and that is where ventilation is needed.
The problem on the roof is that moisture can come from the indoor environment, so I don't believe in solutions completely without ventilation either.
Moisture that is added must come out, everyone agrees on that. I claim that the roof is more sealed than the exterior walls and that is where ventilation is needed.
The problem on the roof is that moisture can come from the indoor environment, so I don't believe in solutions completely without ventilation either.
For the sake of argument, I just want to point out that I am completely in agreement with hul's perspective.
Anecdotes like "there were no problems with my house" add nothing. I'm not moving into your house; I'm moving into mine. It's like saying seatbelts are unnecessary because I've never been in an accident.
What I want to know is if hul (and I) have missed anything. Could the vertical battens cause any problems that we haven't thought of?
Anecdotes like "there were no problems with my house" add nothing. I'm not moving into your house; I'm moving into mine. It's like saying seatbelts are unnecessary because I've never been in an accident.
What I want to know is if hul (and I) have missed anything. Could the vertical battens cause any problems that we haven't thought of?
I have certainly missed some aspect, and it would be interesting to know if so, but the arguments that have come up so far, I simply don't buy.Nyfniken said:
For the sake of it, I just want to point out that I am completely on hul's track.
Anecdotes like "there was no problem with my house" contribute nothing. I'm not going to live in your house, I'm going to live in mine. It's like saying seat belts are unnecessary because I've never been in a crash.
What I want to know is if hul (and I) have missed something. Can the standing battens cause any problem we haven't thought of?
Do not go below 20mm thickness on the battens.K Kallebo said:I have actually read that text before and was considering using 20-22mm standing battens for a while. But I found 12 at the lumberyard that fit perfectly.
I have an opening for the exterior walls at the top and bring in air to the catwalks from the gable vents. On the gables, I currently have about a 10 mm gap at the top, along the gable overhang 38°. But I'm a bit uncertain if rainwater might get in there when it’s windy... I can easily close the gap with a strip.
Reasonable?
I made a mistake in my postK Kallebo said:
but you did use 12mm vertical battens, 28mm horizontal battens, and then vertical paneling on top?
So not as SHB advocates, or did I misunderstand you?