1,297 views ·
5 replies
1k views
5 replies
Disconnect waterborne underfloor heating
I would need a maximum height of 20mm for water-based underfloor heating in the hallway with tiles.
The hallway is 2.7×2.3 m with a heated basement underneath and a staircase beside the hallway.
210×45 joists with a span of 2.7m. Cc 60.
Is it okay to notch the joists, say 22mm, and reinforce with 195×45 joists glued and screwed on our side of the joists?
It will be a bit of work to notch them. But I believe the end result will be best that way if it's possible.
The hallway is 2.7×2.3 m with a heated basement underneath and a staircase beside the hallway.
210×45 joists with a span of 2.7m. Cc 60.
Is it okay to notch the joists, say 22mm, and reinforce with 195×45 joists glued and screwed on our side of the joists?
It will be a bit of work to notch them. But I believe the end result will be best that way if it's possible.
Self-builder
· Stockholm
· 2 705 posts
Should reduce the load-bearing capacity so little so it can't be a problem
Perhaps you also have to cut the Kortla, yes.
I meant that you should notch the entire length of the floor beam (2.7m) Just to clarify.
I'm considering perhaps reinforcing with plywood on the sides instead.
How do you calculate the strength of something like this?
I meant that you should notch the entire length of the floor beam (2.7m) Just to clarify.
I'm considering perhaps reinforcing with plywood on the sides instead.
How do you calculate the strength of something like this?
Found the thread here, which addresses some of my questions.
Some have replied that it should be fine if I add extra beams cc30 and then plane down the existing joists by 22mm.
Glue screws chipboard and then self-leveling compound on top of this.
Some have replied that it should be fine if I add extra beams cc30 and then plane down the existing joists by 22mm.
Glue screws chipboard and then self-leveling compound on top of this.
Click here to reply