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Dimension studs interior wall with electricity?
Yes, if that's the case, it's completely unnecessary to go for a wider frame if the only difference is that I can fit a thicker door (which I'm not going to have). Go for a 96mm frame then... It's probably possible to tidy up with a bit of extra trim to cover the edges of the outermost board...Janus82 said:
I think, with emphasis on *think*, that you should choose a pocket frame for a wall width of 96mm. The pocket frame I used assumed that you only put one plasterboard on the outside of the pocket frame, and it is with this plasterboard that the final measurement becomes 96mm.
I wanted a plywood board first to have the possibility to screw something into the wall where the door is hidden even if it means you have to use short screws. Additionally, the pocket frame is a bit flimsy, so it's nice to stiffen it up with a plywood board at the bottom. When you do it that way, you have to add the width of the outermost plasterboard to the specified thickness of the frame, and then you get 96+13+13=122.
Check the installation instructions for the pocket frame you want to buy and think a bit about how it is constructed. I actually think that the frame that is 122mm thick only has more air on the side of the door and does not offer better opportunities to mount an extra wood board before the plasterboard. But I could be wrong.
Is it common to use OSB plus drywall instead of plywood plus drywall?
The recommendations I have seen, at least for wet zone 1, say that you should have 15mm plywood plus wet room board (maybe drywall was enough...) outside the studs.
The recommendations I have seen, at least for wet zone 1, say that you should have 15mm plywood plus wet room board (maybe drywall was enough...) outside the studs.
When you have plywood in wet rooms, it is because you want to follow våtrumsvägg 2012, which is super convenient and a future-proof solution. In regular rooms, most people use OSB instead of plywood because it is cheaper yet almost as strong.
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