How do I easiest take down a wall in a house that's almost 100 years old?
The wall is built with sturdy planks on both sides and probably insulated with sawdust, approximately 15-20 cm thick.
There are likely quite a few nails crisscrossing through the wall.
It is 2.60 m high and 4.5 m long.
You'd also like to get it out as easily as possible.
Is it a reciprocating saw with a metal blade that's needed?
The wall is built with sturdy planks on both sides and probably insulated with sawdust, approximately 15-20 cm thick.
There are likely quite a few nails crisscrossing through the wall.
It is 2.60 m high and 4.5 m long.
You'd also like to get it out as easily as possible.
Is it a reciprocating saw with a metal blade that's needed?
For me as a happy amateur, it sounds like a good method. (if it's not load-bearing... 
)
)
Sounds strange with an insulated interior wall from that time.
I have plenty of walls made of tongue and groove planks in the house. They are often attached at the top and bottom with copious amounts of skewed nails. For those I've needed to tear down, one of the following methods has been used with good results:
The violent method: Place the reciprocating saw with a long, coarse-toothed bimetal blade in the middle of the wall and cut it horizontally straight across. Break each part of the wall forward-backward. The skewed nails will then crawl out.
The careful method, suitable if you want to recycle the timber: Tear off layer by layer of the wall until you reach the tongue and groove planks. Cut the skewed nails at the top and bottom with a thin, fine-toothed metal blade in the reciprocating saw. Remove plank by plank.
Do not underestimate the risk of the wall being load-bearing! If the wall is perpendicular to the roof trusses and roughly in the middle of the house, there is a high risk that the lower chord of the roof trusses is spliced directly over the wall with quite little overlap. If there's a floor above, it's crucial to know in which direction the floor joists lie. They might also be spliced directly over the wall. There were not many laminated beams and fancy construction fittings 100 years ago...
I have plenty of walls made of tongue and groove planks in the house. They are often attached at the top and bottom with copious amounts of skewed nails. For those I've needed to tear down, one of the following methods has been used with good results:
The violent method: Place the reciprocating saw with a long, coarse-toothed bimetal blade in the middle of the wall and cut it horizontally straight across. Break each part of the wall forward-backward. The skewed nails will then crawl out.
The careful method, suitable if you want to recycle the timber: Tear off layer by layer of the wall until you reach the tongue and groove planks. Cut the skewed nails at the top and bottom with a thin, fine-toothed metal blade in the reciprocating saw. Remove plank by plank.
Do not underestimate the risk of the wall being load-bearing! If the wall is perpendicular to the roof trusses and roughly in the middle of the house, there is a high risk that the lower chord of the roof trusses is spliced directly over the wall with quite little overlap. If there's a floor above, it's crucial to know in which direction the floor joists lie. They might also be spliced directly over the wall. There were not many laminated beams and fancy construction fittings 100 years ago...
Damn, now I'm a bit nervous anyway...
The wall runs perpendicular to what the roof trusses do, but it's one floor above. The wall goes from an exterior wall to the chimney stack; on the other side of the chimney stack, there's no wall but still an upper floor.
There's another wall that runs in the opposite direction through the entire house (pretty much in the middle) except for the chimney stack and door openings... there's also an upper floor there.
The chimney stack is shaped like a T on the lower floor but not on the upper floor, if that can be of any help...
The wall runs perpendicular to what the roof trusses do, but it's one floor above. The wall goes from an exterior wall to the chimney stack; on the other side of the chimney stack, there's no wall but still an upper floor.
There's another wall that runs in the opposite direction through the entire house (pretty much in the middle) except for the chimney stack and door openings... there's also an upper floor there.
The chimney stack is shaped like a T on the lower floor but not on the upper floor, if that can be of any help...