Hello

The question might have come up before, but I didn't find anything with a quick search.

I need to cut metal studs (the kind used as wall studs) in different ways and measurements. I need everything to be properly straight, so I don't think using a hacksaw will work.

Can you cut them, for example, with the bandsaw if I use a carbide-tipped blade? Or can you run it through the table saw? How much do the blades get damaged?

It's very thin sheet metal.
 
  • A metal stud on a flat surface, showing texture and thin material typical of drywall framing components.
What's wrong with regular tin snips?
 
Absolutely nothing wrong at all. Just can't get it that straight with it either.. :(
 
You can cut with an angle grinder

why does it have to be straight when you cut?
 
jackt said:
Absolutely nothing wrong at all. Just can't get it straight with that either.. :(
You should have a sheet metal shear for the purpose, not a serrated all-purpose scissor from Biltema. In the sheet metal, there is usually an embossed pattern that makes it easy to aim straight.
 
If it's alu, then there's no problem cutting with a bandsaw. You can even cut thick things in alu, but then you should use T-röd as a coolant, otherwise the teeth will gum up.
 
I thought that one of the points of building walls with metal studs was precisely that you DON'T need to be so meticulous with length adjustments...
 
It doesn't matter if the rule is -10 mm and skewed. Maybe TS has another reason for having straight cuts.
 
Yes, it should not be for walls. Then I'll use the sheet metal shears.

This time I will build a "fan cabinet/range hood" to hang on the wall above the stove/wood stove. I can't have wood closer than 1 meter above the wood stove. So I thought of making the frame with the metal studs. Then I would like it to have right angles, etc.

I can use the hacksaw together with a miter box if the saws don't work..

Steel frame design for kitchen hood above stove, featuring rectangular shapes with angled sides against a light grey background.
 
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One can cut away triangles on the sides of the rule and save the bottom, then the bottom works as a "hinge" and the construction becomes more stable. If you plan to cover the hood with metal sheet, it's probably simplest to make a drawing for the sheet metal worker.
 
spiskrok said:
You can cut off the triangles on the sides of the board and keep the bottom, then the bottom works as a "hinge" and the construction becomes more stable. If you're going to cover the hood with metal, it's probably easiest to make a drawing for the sheet metal worker.
Primarily want to remove the small angle at the very end on the short side; it currently prevents the boards from fitting into each other. I then plan to rivet the overlapping pieces together; that should make everything secure. Then parts need to be removed in the middle of a board, that’s where I think it would be easier and more accurate than with metal shears.

It will be covered with minerit board, which probably needs to be plastered.

But an angle grinder could probably handle that too.

But the main question remains, can you saw "this" metal with wood saw blades? Without them getting damaged?
 
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annathus
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If it's aluminum and you have a fine-toothed blade, it won't take much damage, if it's sheet metal it won't work. I think you might have problems with the minerite against the stud. The stud will expand from the heat, then the pus will crack at the joints and screw heads. You might manage, but it's worth considering.
 
Ok. Does anyone know what kind of metal is in these beams? I just tested them and they're magnetic. Aluminum isn't magnetic, right?

Yes, that was good to know. I didn't think it would be able to move that much. Maybe I need to reconsider...
 
It is possible to cut metal studs on a regular saw table with a woodcutting blade. But you should have a fine-toothed blade and not apply too much pressure to avoid burning the teeth. Naturally, the blade will lose its sharpness if you cut metal. The same happens if you cut hard laminate flooring. With a small diamond file, you can restore the sharpness.

If you use an old dull blade, you will quickly burn (overheat) the teeth, so it is important that you have sharp teeth when cutting metal. The best option if you need to cut many studs is to buy a carbide blade for metal cutting. There should be one available that fits your mounting and has the right diameter.
 
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jackt
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jackt said:
Ok. Does anyone know what kind of metal is in these studs, they are magnetic I tested now. Aluminum is not magnetic, right?

Yes, it was good to know, I didn't think it could move that much. Maybe I should think it over again..
The image in the first post shows an electro-galvanized steel stud.
 
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jackt
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