E Evalarsson36 said:
I didn't say I'm a trained carpenter. If I were, I wouldn't be asking what I believe are knowledgeable people about how things should be done. But when there's constant sighing and complaining about everything that needs to be done, and things are presented in a disparaging way, I get frustrated. If someone explains that it can't be done that way because... that's completely fine. You might want to study power dynamics a little but definitely don't emulate them. That way you might understand. When I point out that he hasn't made a threshold but it's just a pile of plasterboard under the door and he sighs and says, "How do you think I should solve it?" It's really unprofessional. Two closet doors drag on the floor because he was in a hurry. I can't be bothered to argue about it, so I'll have to put shims under the hinges instead. A stick is lying loose. It was never secured.
Join a study group and then secure the stick. Women can! 👍
 
T trojlee said:
So you have brought a carpenter home to ask if the sheet metal is fitted correctly? I don't quite understand what you want to achieve with this other than to badmouth a company?
The sheet metal is wrong on your windows..
I wanted to know how the sheet metal should be fitted. Plain and simple. No interpretation needed! The question was, how should the sheet metal be fitted? Nothing else! Why a carpenter has said so has absolutely no relevance to the question!
 
Farstatjej90 Farstatjej90 said:
In that case someone who thinks sexual harassment is something to joke about. In other words, an idiot or possibly a child.
I know nothing about that and I take no position.
 
Farstatjej90
A AndersS said:
I don't know about that and won't take a position.
No, that's okay, I'll handle it!😉👏
 
T Tsdoesds said:
I am completely fascinated by the volumes people assume will practically gush against the weather barrier. I agree that in theory, there is a logic in having the metal sheet inside the barrier, tape, and a number of spells to ward off the last water molecule.

In practice, a panel is sufficiently tight, and a metal sheet nailed at the same level as the battens is good enough, and then the air gap takes up the rest. It rains sideways a few days per year, and not even then does water pour in from the flashing.

I've seen damage from metal under only the covering.

I've never seen damage from metal on battens.

Metal under the weather barrier is more cumbersome when you want to make adjustments, change metal sheets, or windows.
Finally, a sensible comment about how little water can get in through the panel or condensation behind, I have my flashings on the battens and have not seen any sign of damage in 20 years and it's also easier to change the flashings if you want for some reason when they're on the battens and not under them as someone wrote, because then it gets difficult!
 
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E Evalarsson36 said:
I haven't said that he did anything with my windows! Or? He says that the sheet is misplaced and that was my question.
Well... you said you would report to Arn. But to report there, I guess the basis is to file a complaint about something.
Which one can only do if one has purchased something 🤓
 
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E Evalarsson36 said:
But if you bought a house where the sheet metal needs to be replaced for some reason. It could also be that you want to, for example, change the color or material.
Then you have bought the wrong house for yourself and have not factored in the costs of replacing the sheet metal. The year is 2023 and we have not advanced in our sustainability thinking beyond building simple solutions that are poor just because one might want to change the color and material of the sheet metal. Sheet metal should outlast the lifespan of a wooden facade. A good window should do so as well in many cases. If you build the wrong solutions or forget maintenance, you reduce the lifespan. And it is possible to build in a way that allows you to replace windows without damaging the facade if that is an issue.

If you don't want to follow what the carpenter or theory suggests and instead want it the way you desire, can't you just tell the next carpenter, "I understand this is not correct, but I still want it done this way and will take responsibility for any issues," instead of stepping on someone's professional role if they say it's wrong. It usually works out if the consumer takes over the responsibility that otherwise lay with the service provider.
 
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A Alexn72 said:
Well... you said you would report to Arn. But to report there, I guess the basis is to make a complaint about something.
Which you can only do if you have bought something 🤓
True. You can make a complaint about a job too 😏
 
Box of rain Box of rain said:
Join a study circle and then put the stick there. Women can! 👍
But if I'm paying for a job, then it should be done, right?
 
useless useless said:
If you, for example, install 100 mm thick boards, the overflashings will be very deep if they are to sit inside the insulation and extend a few mm beyond the window casing. Like 250 mm? Additionally, there will be a difficult-to-insulate cold bridge under the flashing.
It depends on the ventilation and the thickness of the panel, where the window is mounted on the facade, but yes, that could happen. I always recommend not installing windows in the facade plane in a ventilated construction due to the issue with the cold bridge, preferring them at the boundary of the thermal envelope. However, there are products on the market that have insulation capability where the window is extended beyond the thermal envelope, but it is both very expensive and requires extra moisture protection/sealing under drip flashings. If you look at the many simple solutions proposed in this thread, they have a cold bridge. In principle, the heat transmission in a window looks like this. Moving the window out makes the frame colder and you get a cold bridge in the wall since there is less insulation between inside and outside.
 
  • Thermal gradient simulation showing temperature distribution in window installation, highlighting potential cold bridge areas with color scale from -10°C to 20°C.
P ptlf said:
Finally a sensible comment about how little water can come in through the panel or condensation behind it. I have my flashings on the nail battens and haven't seen any tendency for damage in 20 years. Additionally, it's easier to replace flashings if needed if they're on the battens rather than under them as someone suggested, as it would then be more challenging!
However, it's completely irrelevant to the thread creator's question. Which was whether the carpenter made a mistake by wanting to place the OB inside the wind barrier, which has been determined that he did not.
No one has claimed that large amounts of water come in behind the panel. Construction solutions in industry regulations aim to make it as good as possible and thereby minimize damage in case something does make water come in.
This is not mandatory; everyone can make their own risk assessment and choose the solution they want for their own house. However, as a craftsman, one should choose a professional solution. Not saying that placing outside the batten is not such a solution, that judgment is for someone else to make.

Then, the argument that nothing has happened in 20 years on your particular house is really poor. It only proves that you haven't had any major water leaks through the facade of your specific house. It can be different on other houses.
 
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Mats-S
A AndersS said:
Well, when renovating older buildings, it is allowed to use a method that today should not be used, should be based on the building's construction, and to avoid having to demolish/change unreasonably much. Of course, this is done in dialogue with the customer.
It doesn't need to be defined as incorrect, but as the "best solution" based on current conditions.
And if it's a drip cap over a window that is close to the roof eave, it's 100% risk-free, not a single drop of water will get inside that flashing 😉
 
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Mats-S Mats-S said:
And if it's an above flashing over a window located near the eaves, it's 100% risk-free, not a drop of water will come inside that flashing 😉
What is near the eaves?
 
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E Evalarsson36 said:
What is near the eaves?
Close enough so that rainwater does not come from the facade on the upper side, the larger the eaves, the longer the distance can be. So in principle, no over flashing is even needed there, the window trim does the job for the few drops that might appear, for example during a facade wash.
 
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J J_K_H said:
Then you bought the wrong house for you and didn't calculate the costs involved in replacing the metal. The year is 2023 and we haven't come further in our sustainability thinking than to build simple solutions that are bad because you might want to change the color and material of the metal. Metal should outlast the lifespan of the wooden facade. A good window as well in many cases. If you build wrong solutions or forget maintenance, you decrease the lifespan. And it's possible to build so that you can replace windows without damaging the facade if that's a concern.

If you don't want it the way the carpenter or theory says and want it the way you want, can't you just tell the next carpenter, "I understand this isn't right, but I still want it done this way and take responsibility for any problems" instead of stepping on someone's professional role if they say it's wrong. It usually works out if the consumer takes on the responsibility that otherwise lay with the service provider.
You need to read better. Where did I write that I absolutely want it in a specific way? I want to know how the metal should fit and I suspect the carpenter is trying to trick me. And regarding buying a house. So if you have the chance to buy your dream house at a good price. The only issue is that the metal needs to be replaced for some reason. So you would decline?
 
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