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25 replies
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25 replies
Consumption Finja fine concrete.
Apartment fixer
· Dalarna
· 24 posts
But Slipsats costs almost as much as self-leveling compound which costs 4 times as much as fine concrete. So can I just as well cast everything with self-leveling compound?
If you want to get away as cheaply as possible, buy a few bags of standard cement at Byggmax. On your way home, pick up a load of casting sand from the gravel pit. Once you're home, look around the neighborhood to see who has an orange cement mixer you can borrow.
Mix according to the instructions, and you'll have a floor for a couple of hundred. Max.
You’ll have to deal with the drying times, but it will be the cheapest. Ready-mixed concrete in a bag is super expensive and mostly contains sand.
Mix according to the instructions, and you'll have a floor for a couple of hundred. Max.
You’ll have to deal with the drying times, but it will be the cheapest. Ready-mixed concrete in a bag is super expensive and mostly contains sand.
Builder Henke:
We have some scenarios to consider (self-leveling compound, concrete, screed). I assume you mean it's just as expensive to buy ready-mixed concrete as to buy cement and the right type of aggregate from the gravel pit. I argue that it's cheaper to mix it yourself.
Ready-mix concrete:
16 bags of ready-mixed fine concrete = 16 x 39.95 = 639.20 SEK
Mix yourself:
4 bags of cement = 4 x 43.95 = 175.80
180 liters of gravel 0-8 mm
160 liters of stone 8-16 mm
You can get the gravel and stone on a trailer. In Stockholm, a trailer costs 300 SEK. I know gravel and stone are cheaper in other parts of Sweden
Total: 475.80
Thus, you save 163.40 by mixing yourself compared to ready-mixed concrete in this case. Not a huge amount, of course.
Builder Henke:
If you look at the content of a concrete bag—what does it contain according to you in terms of volume? Weber (formerly Maxit) says that a bag of fine concrete contains 70-80% sand.
We have some scenarios to consider (self-leveling compound, concrete, screed). I assume you mean it's just as expensive to buy ready-mixed concrete as to buy cement and the right type of aggregate from the gravel pit. I argue that it's cheaper to mix it yourself.
Ready-mix concrete:
16 bags of ready-mixed fine concrete = 16 x 39.95 = 639.20 SEK
Mix yourself:
4 bags of cement = 4 x 43.95 = 175.80
180 liters of gravel 0-8 mm
160 liters of stone 8-16 mm
You can get the gravel and stone on a trailer. In Stockholm, a trailer costs 300 SEK. I know gravel and stone are cheaper in other parts of Sweden
Total: 475.80
Thus, you save 163.40 by mixing yourself compared to ready-mixed concrete in this case. Not a huge amount, of course.
Builder Henke:
If you look at the content of a concrete bag—what does it contain according to you in terms of volume? Weber (formerly Maxit) says that a bag of fine concrete contains 70-80% sand.
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yes, fine concrete more fine material
coarse concrete more coarse material
QUESTIONS on that?
just trying to make it easy
should we go according to my class 2 education?
I can certainly list how much filler, sand, stone, "cement" is in concrete, even some other additives
coarse concrete more coarse material
QUESTIONS on that?
just trying to make it easy
should we go according to my class 2 education?
I can certainly list how much filler, sand, stone, "cement" is in concrete, even some other additives
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Builder Henke. What is your recommendation to the thread starter?
Would you recommend they embed the pipes with concrete, slip coat, leveling compound, or rapid set leveling compound?
I would probably have mixed concrete myself - mostly out of old habit.
Question for the thread starter:
What do you have as a substrate? Would EPS-cement work?
http://www.epscement.com/?sid=44
Would you recommend they embed the pipes with concrete, slip coat, leveling compound, or rapid set leveling compound?
I would probably have mixed concrete myself - mostly out of old habit.
Question for the thread starter:
What do you have as a substrate? Would EPS-cement work?
http://www.epscement.com/?sid=44
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Apartment fixer
· Dalarna
· 24 posts
I live in an apartment and I will remove the current lightweight concrete or whatever it is that's on the floor so I can get about 9 cm down to the concrete slab underneath and then build up.Fasting65 said:
I don't think EPS concrete will be the best option since it stated this:
EPSCement works excellently in combination with underfloor heating, but the underfloor heating system should be placed on top of the EPSCement pouring.
Since EPS seems to have similar insulating properties as the foam plastic I was thinking of using at the bottom. I think the pipe will be too high up. But thanks for the tip anyway.
I'll probably go with the easiest option and what I've done before and know how to do. Foam plastic, reinforcement mesh, fine concrete, and self-leveling compound.
I thought you answered my question in post no. 21 where I directly asked you what your recommendation to the thread starter was.
It would still be interesting to get a broader picture of how to solve the above problem if you - builder henke - provided more detailed answers on how you think. After all, it is a self-builder forum where people want help.
Just saying you would have used some Ardex mix doesn't lead anywhere. How would you have built up the floor from scratch? All the facts about the construction are there. Since you also seem to be knowledgeable, maybe you can try to provide an idea of what the material costs and give other advantages of using Ardex products.
It would still be interesting to get a broader picture of how to solve the above problem if you - builder henke - provided more detailed answers on how you think. After all, it is a self-builder forum where people want help.
Just saying you would have used some Ardex mix doesn't lead anywhere. How would you have built up the floor from scratch? All the facts about the construction are there. Since you also seem to be knowledgeable, maybe you can try to provide an idea of what the material costs and give other advantages of using Ardex products.
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