Pressure-treated lumber today has so many cracks that they almost fall apart before you even get home and start building.
Thinking about making flower boxes and separators between grass and gravel, but lose the motivation when you know the wood is either already or soon will be badly cracked...
Regarding gravel and grass separators, I'm considering mounting a board on top of the logs to hide the cracks from above, but in that case, I might as well use construction joists.
But maybe someone out there knows smart alternatives? Or a sawmill known for crack-free material.
Thinking about making flower boxes and separators between grass and gravel, but lose the motivation when you know the wood is either already or soon will be badly cracked...
Regarding gravel and grass separators, I'm considering mounting a board on top of the logs to hide the cracks from above, but in that case, I might as well use construction joists.
But maybe someone out there knows smart alternatives? Or a sawmill known for crack-free material.
Today I have just completed four new planting boxes made of pressure-treated wood. An outer frame measuring 1x4 meters and three separating walls. I used 45x195 C 24 timber in two rows for the height. Previously, I used regular construction timber which I lined with roofing felt on the inside, but it lasts at most 6 years. You need to upgrade the wood quality to achieve a nice result. This might mean you have to visit various lumber yards.
Following disappointedly others' flower boxes made from locally built timber where the wood has cracked a lot.
You mention upgrading in timber quality. Is all timber stamped so I should look for a certain grading, and if so, which one?
You mention upgrading in timber quality. Is all timber stamped so I should look for a certain grading, and if so, which one?
Larger dimensions (45x120 and up) are usually strength graded, which also indirectly serves as an aesthetic grading. Normally, one can choose between C14 and C24. The latter quality is more homogeneous and contains fewer large knots. Narrower wood, such as decking wood, is aesthetically graded. G4-1 to G4-4. The quantity and size of knots are important parameters there as well. G4-4 should be completely avoided. One way to circumvent the issue is to use narrower wood in multiple layers,