The post needs to be braced laterally.
If one does not want horizontal wood (visible) for aesthetic reasons, one can use wrought iron. Then you can manage with a significantly slimmer profile that is not as clearly visible.
Additionally, one can, for example, also install two diagonal supports (in the form of an inverted V) in the middle of the greenhouse that provide a support point for the ridge beam in the middle. Then you can probably reduce the size of the ridge beam. Whether you want to indicate a division of the greenhouse depends on taste and function. These two diagonal supports will probably also be long and likely need to be 95x95, but since they are "inside the greenhouse," it probably won't be as aesthetically disruptive. At least not from the outside. It is probably possible to bevel the corners as well without the rigidity/load-bearing capacity becoming too poor. This can have a significant aesthetic impact on the visual impression, making it slimmer.
If one does not want horizontal wood (visible) for aesthetic reasons, one can use wrought iron. Then you can manage with a significantly slimmer profile that is not as clearly visible.
Additionally, one can, for example, also install two diagonal supports (in the form of an inverted V) in the middle of the greenhouse that provide a support point for the ridge beam in the middle. Then you can probably reduce the size of the ridge beam. Whether you want to indicate a division of the greenhouse depends on taste and function. These two diagonal supports will probably also be long and likely need to be 95x95, but since they are "inside the greenhouse," it probably won't be as aesthetically disruptive. At least not from the outside. It is probably possible to bevel the corners as well without the rigidity/load-bearing capacity becoming too poor. This can have a significant aesthetic impact on the visual impression, making it slimmer.
What I'm interested in is if the thing holds up in completely ordinary conditions – that is, or am I completely off track even in normal snow and wind conditions. (The tables indicate 50-year extremes as I understand it).Kaboff said:
Agree, started thinking about if I can recess the glass into it so that it's less noticeable from the outside.Oldboy said:
But what do you think about what's going on with the greenhouse I attached? That it could be an upside-down T? And that it would provide lateral bracing?Oldboy said:
My gut feeling is that you probably need a substantial beam lying underneath, almost in the same class as the ridge beam itself, to achieve decent lateral stiffness. However, it doesn't change the fact that your 45x90 is too long/weak.Davidw said:
But is it the post or the construction? Really, the post shouldn't sway if the house can't, right? However, that assumesOldboy said:
a) ridge beam fixed in the main house (as my dormer provides)
b) the pillar is reasonably dimensioned for static loads such as the roof, dead load, and snow - only wind remains to counter.
* Do these calculations take into account that the glass is there and provides stability? I mean, if you silicone it in place, that should give it considerable torsional rigidity, right?justusandersson said:
It would be interesting to hear your thoughts on that.
If the roof slope is 40 degrees, the snow load is reduced by 1/3. Instead of 64 kN, it therefore becomes 2*64/3≈43 kN, which is significantly less. But you must also account for the roof's own weight, which increases slightly with a greater roof slope.
Aren't you afraid of cracked panes due to movements in the frame? I don't think you should design for the glass to absorb movements due to undersized posts.Davidw said:
A post construction like a greenhouse needs to have diagonals in all planes. That means each of the four wall sides (unless one side is connected to another house) and each roof half.
Solid steel fittings. Absolutely no nail plates.