Made a similar staircase a few months ago but with carriage pieces in hot-dip galvanized VKR 200x100x5. Step width of 1850mm.
I think it'll work just fine to build as you've planned, and it won't really make a decisive difference if you use a 45 or 34mm bracket. I would rather increase the profile height of the bracket to 70 or 95mm if possible. If you taper the corners of the bracket, it might work.
A 45mm wide bracket provides a little more wood to screw the steps into. If there's any concern about the carriage pieces (which I don't think there is), just double up and screw together two 45x195s so you have a 90x195 carriage piece.
Milling or sawing out is something I would definitely avoid if there's any concern about the strength of the carriage piece.
Looks very solid, but I don't see any pilsner on the wooden deck during work. Or is it held in the free hand?
Edit, zoomed in now, and found 2 (and 2 empty glasses). Then it's approved!
You circular saw across the entire width of the vangstycket. Two precise cuts on each edge that need to be removed. Then 6-7 cuts in between so you can break it off by hand. Smooth out with a chisel or knife.
I got that part, but if the step isn't deep enough to cover the entire groove in the vagnstycket, might it look off? And the vagnstycket might become weakened.
Then you don't need to exaggerate either.......... there aren't many decks and stairs of that kind that have eternal life anyway. There are those who can put their whole soul into small details that are not even visible and then it still looks just as shabby after five years anyway........
I've finally gotten around to starting my stair project. Anyway, since the stairs connect to my deck, I obviously want the first tread to connect to the edge of the decking. The effect of this is that the first step board protrudes beyond the inner edge of the stringers (red arrow). I can live with that, but I don't want it the same way for the rest of the steps. I tried to adjust this (to maintain the step height) for the subsequent steps, but as you can see in the picture, with each step the tread ends up further and further in on the stringers (!). The result of building this way feels like the treads are not following the angle/slope of the stringers, hence the shift. Do you understand what I mean?? Of course, I can fix this by aligning the outer edge of the first tread board with the inside of the stringer (as on step 2), but then I'll have an ugly gap of a couple of centimeters. I could split a tread to cover the gap or how would you solve the whole thing?
You should probably take a few steps back... It looks awkward. In a straight staircase, the tread depth and riser height must be consistent. Also, check that you are following the stair formula (2 times the riser height plus the tread depth should be 60-63 if you measure in cm). Place an extra trallbräda between the deck and the lowest step.
You'll need to back up a few steps... It looks wrong. In a straight staircase, the tread depth and riser height must be constant. Also, make sure you're following the stair formula (2 times the riser height plus the tread depth should equal 60-63 if measured in cm). Place an extra deck board between the deck and the lowest step.
Thanks for the feedback. I have now corrected the lowest step so its outer edge is in line with the top edge of the stringer, and it finally turned out right. Yes, a customized deck board will be placed between the stairs and the deck when everything is complete.
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Ymer said:
