Real duct tape is approved for repairing damage to "ångspärr".
Would you be kind enough to link to a page where it clearly states that it is okay?Thomas Lundquist said:
Thank you.
http://blogg.byggkonsult.name/#post19
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When I trained to become a lösullinstallatör (ekofiber), I was in Borås for a day. The debate there was only about silver tape being the only product to restore damage to a vapor barrier. But even then, Ekofiber had developed a sticker that was approved by SP. Today, there must be plenty of products.BigGitt said:
I can certainly present facts that speak in my favor, but in this case, I think you should present facts first.
Are you Ingenia?
No. No Ingenia.
And only DIY enthusiasts. Who have read a number of threads and also talked with, among others, 3M.
I can only write that there are divided opinions about duct tape. While everyone agrees that special tape products, tailored specifically to PE film/purpose, are always right.
Why take a chance?
Ok. That tape costs up to 300/roll, but then you know it will last for 50 years and that the adhesive won't dissolve the film.
When was the test with the 50-year warranty conducted?BigGitt said:
These products are not even 10 years old. You know that yourself. However, the manufacturers call these "age-resistant." Thus, one can proceed with the question in about 20 years, if it turns out to be a lie. With the silvertape, you are stuck on the issue.
Updating now after the weekend... spent yesterday tearing off the non-sealing and non-approved duct tape and replaced it with about a roll of age-resistant tape. Tape that I, by the way, laid out for the craftsmen but which they clearly did not want to use... then I had to use foam sealant, construction silicone, fireproof mat, and firestop... and carefully ensure that I wasn't closer with non-heat resistant materials than 50mm from the chimney... got it tight enough so that it doesn't draw air right through... hardly diffusion-tight. Thank the gods I have negative pressure ventilation in the house...
Considering the clumsy sheet metal work and total ignorance of vapor barriers the installers had, it will be interesting to see if the chimney sweeper approves it all...
Considering the clumsy sheet metal work and total ignorance of vapor barriers the installers had, it will be interesting to see if the chimney sweeper approves it all...
Do you have a picture of how it looks with you? I don't think water should seep anywhere actually, it's overlapping everywhere... but it looks like ****. But please clarify which details you see as wrong, apart from what I've noted myself.meckis said:I have installed the same metal hood on my roof myself, and as your pictures show, it is COMPLETELY misinstalled!!
water can seep into the roof the way it looks now!
Thanks!
check the assembly instructions here:
http://www.schiedel.se/fileadmin/data/sweden/pdf/Monteringsinstruktion_-_Fyrkantig_huv.pdf
is it this hood?
the cover plate should be inside the jacket package.
granted, there is an underlay that should seal with, but it looks like a 3-year-old assembled it.
http://www.schiedel.se/fileadmin/data/sweden/pdf/Monteringsinstruktion_-_Fyrkantig_huv.pdf
is it this hood?
the cover plate should be inside the jacket package.
granted, there is an underlay that should seal with, but it looks like a 3-year-old assembled it.
Ah... you saw it wrong... the overcap is actually inside the mantel package, what you're seeing is the flat sheet that's supposed to connect down from the ridge to the overcap (Corrugated metal roof)... I see it looks like the overcap now, yes... it's cut in the same shape, because the idea is that it should connect nicely to the mantel package. Which it doesn't...