Hi, how do you make a hole in the chimney through plaster and brick to install a stove or a pipe that needs to be connected to the flue pipe in the chimney? I've had the chimney sweep here and he approved the pipes and said there were no problems. However, I got a poor drawing of how it looks in the chimney. There are 4 flues and I roughly know which flue I should use. There is an old boiler remaining that weighs a ton and can't be removed from the basement. You can see where the pipe is connected, it's almost in the middle of the chimney. Is there anything else I should consider? I'm going to put decorative brick around the chimney and want to make the hole before that. The chimney is from 1937 and no bricks are to be removed. Thanks for the help.
 
Fulkemisten
One usually needs to open up a larger hole to work through and then close it up again with masonry. If it is an existing old smoke tube you need to connect to, you might have to cut it and hope there is a bend and a connection fitting in the correct dimension available.

Otherwise, you can use a regular full or half-brick channel as a flue. It's possible that the channel you plan to use is such a one. In that case, a masonry fitting will suffice if the channel is sealed, otherwise, liner pipes/hoses or slip-casting are the sealing options available.

Remember to set the connection for the stove at exactly the right height for your make/model and account for the thickness of any floor protection. Also, consider the thickness of your decorative stone so that the fitting protrudes sufficiently.

The chimney sweeper probably needs to come and pressure test again once the stove is installed before you can use it?
 
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ninhuo
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Thank you very much for the help. We first need to decide which kamin we want, otherwise it might be strange and wrong to make a hole that might be at the wrong height for the kamin's connection pipe.
 
Fulkemisten Fulkemisten said:
You usually have to make a larger hole that you can work through and then brick it up again. If you're going to connect to an existing old smoke flue, you'll likely have to cut it off and then hope there is a bend and fitting of the correct dimension available.
Otherwise, you can use a regular whole or half brick channel as the smoke passage. It's possible that the channel you intend to use is one of these. In that case, it's sufficient with a masonry fitting if the channel is sealed; otherwise, liner/pipe or glide casting are the sealing alternatives available.
Remember to set the connection for the stove at exactly the right height for your make/model and account for the thickness of any floor protection. Also, consider the thickness of your decorative stone so that the fitting protrudes sufficiently.
The chimney sweep must come and pressure test it again when the stove is finally installed before you can light a fire in it, right?
Should I just hack through the brick or perhaps drill something a bit carefully to ease the work? Nina
 
I had a company that installed the stove, and they drilled a large hole with some kind of hole saw in our chimney. Just large enough to fit the pipe with sealing around it. Once they got in a bit, they switched to chiseling with a machine. It turned out very nice. It was definitely worth a few thousand kronor to have it done by a professional.
 
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ninhuo
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Claes Sörmland
N ninhuo said:
Should I just hack through the brick or maybe drill a bit carefully to make the work easier? Nina
This is simple, Draw out the hole you want to make. Invest in a 6-8 mm drill bit for stone/brick but get a long one. Drill as tightly as you can around the hole, do not use the hammer function, only rotation. Chisel out the opening between the holes with a chisel and mallet. Clean and vacuum well!

For embedding the fitting, wet the brick in the hole and embed with, for example, clay mortar (resistant to heat and movement), lime mortar (less resistant to heat but resistant to movement), fireproof mortar (resistant to heat but not movement) or in the worst case C-mortar (poorly resistant to heat and movement). The fitting should reach all the way into the smoke channel. If you're connecting to an insert, make sure there are no blind pockets or sharp edges that hinder sweeping.

Ensure that your fitting connects to the smoke channel at its bottom or, if the channel blindly continues downward, that there is a gas-tight cleaning hatch at the bottom. If there is a dead end in the smoke channel below the connection, it can be filled with brick/Leca/gravel and mortar at the bottom.
 
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