I should have stapled up a plastic sheet while I was at it. Sooner or later, you might want to improve the warmth and insulation there, and then it's unnecessary to tear everything down again. The plastic doesn’t do any harm just by being there.
 
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naikon
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If I understand correctly, it's living space above the garage. As far as I know, vapor barriers are only used in external walls and the roof. Not in internal walls and between floors.
 
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naikon
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In my garage with woodworking, I have certain mounts/hangers in the ceiling as well as electrical outlets. It might be worth considering now that you see where the beams go. However, electrical wiring can be installed externally if it's just a garage.
 
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Dowser4711
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useless useless said:
I should have stapled up a plastic film while I was at it. You never know when you might want to improve the heating and insulation there, and then it's unnecessary to tear everything down again.
The plastic doesn't do any harm just by being there.
Ah alright. Yes, the garage is unheated but the living space above is heated. I'm thinking long-term, planning to live here for 50 years, so yes I might as well if it might be useful.

A Avemo said:
If I understand correctly, there is living space above the garage. As far as I know, it's only in exterior walls and ceilings that you have a vapor barrier. Not in interior walls and intermediate floor joists.
No, I have no idea, it was as I said when I googled that several sites say you should install a vapor barrier before ceiling plasterboard regardless of the scenario. But I don't know myself.
G g.kraft said:
In my garage with a workshop, I have some mounts/hooks in the ceiling and power outlets. It might be worth considering now that you can see where the joists run. However, you can run the electricity externally if it's just a garage.
Unfortunately, I can't see the joists because of the raw boards which I plan to leave in place ☹️
But good input. I'm running the electricity externally for the fluorescent lamps.
 
N naikon said:
No, I have no idea, as I said when I googled several pages say you should install a vapor barrier before the ceiling gypsum board pretty much regardless of the scenario. But I don't know myself.
There are several points of attack here. First of all, you have an old house that is built without a vapor barrier anywhere. It is possible to continue in that way.

The scenario you want to protect against with a vapor barrier is that warm humid air from a heated space travels through the construction towards the cold outside. Then moisture can condense there and create moisture damage. So a condition for the vapor barrier to be beneficial in your case is that it is usually warmer in the garage than in the residential space above. Therefore, I believe the sites you found assumed it was a ceiling leading outside and not an internal floor.
 
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A Avemo said:
There are several points of attack here. First of all, you have an old house that is built without a vapor barrier anywhere. It is possible to continue that way.

The scenario you want to protect against with a vapor barrier is that warm, humid air from a heated space travels through the construction towards the cold outside. Then moisture can condense there and create moisture damage. So a condition for the vapor barrier to be useful in your case is that it is usually warmer in the garage than in the residential space above. That's why I think the sources you found assumed it was a ceiling that opened outwards and not an inter-floor.
Ok thanks, really good info. Then maybe I'll skip that step 👍🙂
 
N naikon said:
Yes, the garage is unheated but there is heated living space above. I am thinking long-term about living here for 50 years, so yes, I would be happy to take the opportunity if it does any good.
Ok. I thought it was a roof above. If it's just an intermediate floor, no plastic is needed.
 
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Thank you for all your help, amazing input from everyone.
Today I took all the plaster to the dump, managed to fit it all in two trips in the trunk.

Byggmax is open tomorrow and then on Friday at the earliest, considering whether I should chill a bit over Christmas or if I should buy some tiles tomorrow.
 
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Betty72
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N naikon said:
Unfortunately, I can't see the beams due to the tongue and groove paneling that I plan to leave in place ☹️
But good input. I'm running the electrical wiring externally to fluorescent lights
Since the tongue and groove paneling isn't visible, it should be nailed directly to the beam framework.
That is, you can see the beams, in the form of nail rows. :)

(If it had been a visible wooden ceiling, there is a risk that it has been framed first to get the boards in the "right direction" aesthetically.)
 
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naikon
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Dowser4711 Dowser4711 said:
Since it wasn't a visible tongue and groove panel, it should be nailed directly to the joists.
That is, you do see the joists, in the form of nail rows. :)

(If it had been a visible wood ceiling, there is a risk that it has been framed first to get the boards in the "right direction" aesthetically.)
I also wondered if they were nailed to the joists, but that feels really strange. If so, does it mean that my joists go along the long side of the house instead of the short side? You don't build houses like that, do you? Haha
It's from 1961
House floor plan showing a main rectangular area with an attached garage on the right side, questioning joist alignment from 1961 construction.
 
Dowser4711 Dowser4711 said:
Since it wasn't visible paneling, it should be nailed directly to the joists.
That is, you can indeed see the beams, in the form of nail lines. :)

(If it had been a visible wood ceiling, there would be a risk that they had framed it first to get the boards in the "right direction" aesthetically.)
Update: I lit up the ceiling and yes, you seem to be right. I thought all the beams in the house ran along the short side, but in the garage, they seem to go along the long side of the house. There you have it.
Really a shame that I don't have any blueprints from when it was built...
 
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N naikon said:
Update: shone up at the ceiling and yes, you seem to be right. I thought all the beams in the house went along the short side, but in the garage, they seem to go on the long side of the house. There you go.
Too bad I don't have any blueprints from when it was built...
Let me guess, you have a few more walls than that on the floor level?
In that case, it's common to have the framework between some of the walls. These are then called load-bearing walls. That is, they support the framework above.
You can then use shorter/thinner beams than if they were to span the entire width.
 
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cpalm
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Dowser4711 Dowser4711 said:
Let me guess, you have a few more walls than that on the floor plan?
If so, it's common to have the joist between some of the walls. These are then called load-bearing walls. That is, they support the joist above.
Then you can use shorter/slimmer beams than if it has to span the entire width.
Great thanks for the info! I had assumed that the joist always ran in the same direction 😁 But then it's probably a bit mixed in the house 👍
 
They often face the same direction, for purely practical reasons. But if you really don't have more walls than that on the floor, then it's probably mixed, yes.
 
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naikon
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I have now screwed up my first drywall panel in my life A plasterboard panel is being installed on a ceiling with a support pole and a wooden brace, next to a ladder in a partially finished room. The support works well Drywall is being held up against a ceiling with an adjustable support pole in a room under renovation.

PH 2 screwdriver bit by Wolfcraft in packaging on a table, with boxes of drywall screws in the background. I had bought this to make it easier, I think it works just fine, it's probably me who needs to get the hang of it a bit. Easy for the bit to slip on the screw when it's almost screwed in, unclear how to completely avoid that. But very convenient with the magnet function
 
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