Started demolition today and it looks like I have råspont across the entire ceiling!
Ceiling with plaster partially removed, revealing wooden boards underneath.

A real beginner's question now, is the gypsum just for appearance? Can I just keep the råspont as the ceiling or is that bad in some way?
 
N naikon said:
A real beginner's question now, is the plasterboard just for appearance? Can I just as well keep the raw wood paneling as a ceiling or is it bad in some way?
What's on the other side of the raw wood paneling? If there's loose fill insulation directly on it, there might be spots where it doesn't seal completely, allowing loose fill to occasionally fall from the ceiling. But if there are living spaces above, it should generally be fine.
 
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naikon
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C
N naikon said:
A real beginner's question now, is the gypsum just for appearance's sake?
Probably necessary for the fire cell limitation. So maybe not just replace with anything...
 
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A Avemo said:
What is on the other side of the råspont? If there is loose fill insulation directly on it, there might be places where it's not completely sealed, allowing loose fill to occasionally fall from the roof. But if there are living spaces above, there shouldn't be any issues otherwise.
Haven't had any spontaneous opening in the bjälklag so I'm not sure exactly, but I found this about the bjälklag:
Typed document detailing joist construction, mentioning garage, pan room, laundry, and drying room; insulation with sawdust and mention of underfloor paper.
So it sounds like trossbottenpapp is holding the insulation in place from the råspont?
 
C cpalm said:
Probably necessary for the fire cell limitation. So maybe not just replace with anything...
Ah alright. Ok maybe best to aim for ceiling gypsum anyway then 😁
 
Continued tearing and some chips fall from the gaps, so it doesn't seem to be completely tight.
 
Do you still have a boiler that you use for heating?
If so, you should definitely keep gypsum in the ceiling.

But if you have a heat pump or something else that's not more flammable than any other home electronics, then it might not be as necessary.

(In other words, the requirements may have decreased, although having "too good" fire protection is rarely a disadvantage...)
 
Dowser4711 Dowser4711 said:
Do you still have a boiler that you use for heating?
In that case, you should definitely keep the plasterboard in the ceiling.

But if you instead have a heat pump or something else that's not more flammable than any other home electronics, it might not be as necessary.

(In other words, the requirements may have decreased, though there's rarely any downside to "too good" fire protection...)
No, district heating. But I'm thinking of having a car parked.
Considering the shavings that seep through and the fire risk, I think the plan will be to install the ceiling plasterboard as previously linked where you avoid plastering.

Continuing to demolish, it's the hardest along the wall. Going at it with a long flat screwdriver, a hammer, and a crowbar in between. He nailed the plasterboard to survive an apocalypse. Takes a long time, but free gym session at the same time.
Room under renovation with partially removed ceiling, tools on the floor, debris scattered, and a large covered object in the corner.

I'm using a regular dust mask, should I instead use the half mask with P3 filter, do you think?
 
If you are going to have a car parked there, gypsum is definitely a good idea.
(At my place, my hobby room is built as an alternative garage, it has double gypsum in the ceiling for fire protection)

That dust isn't the worst thing you can be affected by, but no dust is healthy and my guess is that you'll get pretty gritty snot when working with it. :)

If you have the option to use a half-mask, you'll feel more energized afterward.
 
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naikon
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Okay, the part that takes the absolute longest is the edges. The old plasterboard goes under the plaster and is tricky to remove.
What would you have done here?
Gone around with the multi-sander and made a straight cut, or tried to get all the plasterboard out of the corners?
View of wooden ceiling with rough plaster edges where old drywall meets the wall, posing a challenge for clean trimming or removal.
Electric multi-tool scraping plaster off a wall edge under a wooden ceiling.
 
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I would have just cut it. Either with the multi-cutter or simply with a knife and make it decent. You won't stand trying to fit the boards into the gap anyway, so it's better if it's filled with gypsum and then you put the boards edge to edge and spackle where it looks too ugly.
 
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C
It may be perceived as overworked, but just to have it said, if you are to follow any "system solution" that meets EI30 or EI60 if that is formally required, there are likely specific requirements regarding the execution of the joint in the wall/ceiling angle.
 
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N naikon said:
Okay, almost done with the demolition, so it's almost time to buy ceiling gypsum. Too bad Byggmax is closed next week!
[image]

According to these two pages
[link]
[link]
I should have a vapor barrier. Is this something I should install before the gypsum?
If there wasn't a vapor barrier before, you probably won't need it afterward either. Are you planning to change the use of the garage in any way? For example, bringing in more snow and slush than before?
 
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S Stuff said:
If there wasn't a vapor barrier before, you probably won't need one now either. Are you going to change the garage's use in any way? For example, bring in more snow and slush than before?
Okay, thanks!! No, I won't be bringing in anything 😁
 
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