I am going to install stucco, in the form of pre-made moldings from d-cor. There is an electrical box where the molding is supposed to go, how is this best resolved?
Hard to say what is the best way. Perhaps the very best would be to move the box, but that would be quite an extensive intervention and expensive. I assume we're talking about a recessed box. So there's a box cover in the way?
Under no circumstances should you enclose the box so that it becomes inaccessible for service and inspection.
One option might be to attach a piece of the molding to the box cover. But it won't look very nice.
Under no circumstances should you enclose the box so that it becomes inaccessible for service and inspection.
One option might be to attach a piece of the molding to the box cover. But it won't look very nice.
Is the box in the way or is it only on the edge of the moulding?
Assuming it's faux stucco made of polyurethane or styrofoam?
The advantage of a polyurethane moulding is that it is easy to work with for a nice result. I had to make a recess in the ceiling moulding for the bathroom fan. I installed the moulding, carved out the recess, masked with tape, and sprayed in a dab of polyurethane foam because the cavity on the back of the moulding was exposed, cut it clean, puttyed, sanded, and painted.
In my case, it's something protruding, so it turned out really nice, but if it's just a junction box cover, of course, it looks a bit odd with a "hole" in the moulding.
Assuming it's faux stucco made of polyurethane or styrofoam?
The advantage of a polyurethane moulding is that it is easy to work with for a nice result. I had to make a recess in the ceiling moulding for the bathroom fan. I installed the moulding, carved out the recess, masked with tape, and sprayed in a dab of polyurethane foam because the cavity on the back of the moulding was exposed, cut it clean, puttyed, sanded, and painted.
In my case, it's something protruding, so it turned out really nice, but if it's just a junction box cover, of course, it looks a bit odd with a "hole" in the moulding.
Aha, they were surface-mounted boxes.
As I see it, you have two options. Either move the boxes. Then you will likely have to replace some of the cables going to the boxes, as they will become too short after a move. Is that a cable we see exactly at the ceiling/wall angle as well? You should expect it to take an electrician a couple - three hours. It depends a little on how long the cables are and to what degree it's possible not to replace the cables.
Or you let the molding go up to the boxes and leave the boxes in place.
As I see it, you have two options. Either move the boxes. Then you will likely have to replace some of the cables going to the boxes, as they will become too short after a move. Is that a cable we see exactly at the ceiling/wall angle as well? You should expect it to take an electrician a couple - three hours. It depends a little on how long the cables are and to what degree it's possible not to replace the cables.
Or you let the molding go up to the boxes and leave the boxes in place.
Thanks for the answer. There is no cable in the corner between the wall and the ceiling. Do you have any idea what it would cost to move these with the help of an electrician? Am I allowed to build these into the molding?H hempularen said:
The junction boxes must be accessible. Even though, in practice, one doesn't frequently run and inspect electrical connections, it must be possible to inspect the connections without damage. And IF something is wrong, it must be accessible to work with the wires in the box.
Looking at the picture, it appears hypothetically possible to remove the box, angle down the cables coming out of the wall, and mount the boxes as far below the outlet from the wall as they are currently above. Shorten the cable coming from below so it fits the box. Does the larger box to the right have enough space, or is it also in the way?
An electrician must determine if it is possible to work with the existing cables. If they are old, there is a high risk that the insulation will crack when you start bending them. There is an older similar cable type usually called "dödskulo," and if that's the case, nothing can be done without them cracking, and the outer metal casing becoming live. IF they are such, they should be replaced when renovating the room, regardless of whether it's necessary for other reasons than electrical safety.
I don't dare guess the cost. But what we see in the picture, an electrician should be able to replace in 1 - 2 hours, at worst half a day. But then again, I don't know about the cables coming from the wall, how troublesome it is to access their other ends, or how difficult it is to access the visible cable in its entire length. Expect 20 - 50 kr per meter cable in material, and maybe 50 - 100 kr for new boxes. If you choose the wrong company, the material price can be 5 - 10 times higher than I guess. If you can buy the material yourself, it's maybe about 12 - 15 kr/m, and 20 - 30 kr for the box, but most electrical companies refuse to work with materials you bought yourself.
Labor time usually costs 600 - 800/h for electricians, counted from when they start gathering materials and get in the car to you. Often, a decent sum is also added for the vehicle itself.
Looking at the picture, it appears hypothetically possible to remove the box, angle down the cables coming out of the wall, and mount the boxes as far below the outlet from the wall as they are currently above. Shorten the cable coming from below so it fits the box. Does the larger box to the right have enough space, or is it also in the way?
An electrician must determine if it is possible to work with the existing cables. If they are old, there is a high risk that the insulation will crack when you start bending them. There is an older similar cable type usually called "dödskulo," and if that's the case, nothing can be done without them cracking, and the outer metal casing becoming live. IF they are such, they should be replaced when renovating the room, regardless of whether it's necessary for other reasons than electrical safety.
I don't dare guess the cost. But what we see in the picture, an electrician should be able to replace in 1 - 2 hours, at worst half a day. But then again, I don't know about the cables coming from the wall, how troublesome it is to access their other ends, or how difficult it is to access the visible cable in its entire length. Expect 20 - 50 kr per meter cable in material, and maybe 50 - 100 kr for new boxes. If you choose the wrong company, the material price can be 5 - 10 times higher than I guess. If you can buy the material yourself, it's maybe about 12 - 15 kr/m, and 20 - 30 kr for the box, but most electrical companies refuse to work with materials you bought yourself.
Labor time usually costs 600 - 800/h for electricians, counted from when they start gathering materials and get in the car to you. Often, a decent sum is also added for the vehicle itself.