Hello,

Do I need to install battens between the insulation and a Huntonit ceiling in an insulated heated garden room that will not have either a kitchen or bathroom? Or can I install the ceiling directly on the rafters in contact with the insulation?
 
TheImprovisor
PG Lindgren PG Lindgren said:
Hi,

Do I need to install battens between the insulation and a Huntonit ceiling in an insulated heated shed that won't have a kitchen or bathroom? Or can I attach the ceiling directly to the roof beams in contact with the insulation?
Are you planning for the insulation to lie directly on the Huntonit, or what do you mean? If it's heated, you probably have plastic between the roof beams that the insulation lies on, right? I don't know what your CC is between the roof beams, but they are likely too far apart for you to get a good screw hold for the boards.

Remember that the Huntonit boards that are 30 cm wide actually measure 28 cm, so you need to have them less than cc 30, or you won't have anything to screw into after 2-3 rows.
 
The insulation is placed between the roof beams.
I don't plan on using a vapor barrier since it's only intended as a storage/bedroom. So, there won't be any significant vapor formation other than humidity.

Insulation between wooden beams without vapor barrier, intended for a storage/bedroom with minimal moisture concerns.
 
TheImprovisor
PG Lindgren PG Lindgren said:
The insulation is placed between the roof beams.
I do not intend to use a vapor barrier as it is only meant as a storage room/bedroom. So, there won't be much steam formation other than humidity.

[image]
How do you plan to attach the Huntonit between the beams and at the short ends? Recommended, if I recall correctly, is also a screw every 10 cm on the long sides. As it looks on the picture, the board will only be held with three screws on the long side and none on the short side. My firm opinion is that this is not sufficient.
 
Thank you. That wasn't my question, but thanks for the input.

The board should be cut so that the short side ends up on the roof truss. I was thinking of getting a roof molding that the board rests on.
 
TheImprovisor
PG Lindgren PG Lindgren said:
Thank you. That wasn't my consideration, but thanks for the input.
Sorry.
If you're not going to have a vapor barrier anyway, it doesn't matter if you space out or not.
The problem I think you will encounter is the strength with so few attachment points.
PG Lindgren PG Lindgren said:
The board should be cut so that the short side ends on the ceiling beam. I was thinking of getting a molding for the board to rest on.
The molding only helps you on the edge against the wall, doesn't it? How do you handle the end of the next board?
 
It is cc 60 between the roof trusses and as I have read the instructions, it should be like that. That is, the short sides attached to the roof trusses if I haven't misunderstood something.
 
TheImprovisor
PG Lindgren PG Lindgren said:
There are about 60 between the roof joists, and as I've read the instructions, it should be like that. That is, the short sides fastened to the roof joists if I haven't misunderstood something.
Normally, you start with a full sheet and cut the last one, but here you'll have to do the opposite since the distance from the wall to the first joist is shorter than the length of the sheet. You'll likely have to cut the last one too. (I don't know how long your ceiling is.)

For the next row, you'll have to cut the first sheet even more so that the seams are staggered.

Measure carefully before you start so that you don't end up with a seam right between two joists.

It will surely turn out well. 👍
 
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