I spoke with a carpenter a while ago about how to arch a beam that I need to install when I take down a load-bearing wall.
I have so far taken it that there are several roof trusses. At this wall stands the end of a row of trusses & the beginning of the next row.
he talked about how you could recess the beam at ceiling height & use hangers so you wouldn't see the beam, which would otherwise be the case if the trusses were to stand on it.
okay, I said and didn't think more about it. now that I've thought about it a bit more, I have no idea how to build such hangers or where to buy them ready-made?
can anyone explain & preferably show a picture. ???
I have so far taken it that there are several roof trusses. At this wall stands the end of a row of trusses & the beginning of the next row.
he talked about how you could recess the beam at ceiling height & use hangers so you wouldn't see the beam, which would otherwise be the case if the trusses were to stand on it.
okay, I said and didn't think more about it. now that I've thought about it a bit more, I have no idea how to build such hangers or where to buy them ready-made?
can anyone explain & preferably show a picture. ???
I don't quite understand what he means either, but I placed a beam on top of the rafters' lower arms, then the lower arms were anchored to the beam with angle iron.
The beam has support points at each end that rest on the ground wall via a framework.
The beam has support points at each end that rest on the ground wall via a framework.
Wohw 
how did you get it up in the attic?
Knocked out a gable side?
how did you get it up in the attic?
Knocked out a gable side?
A bottle of wine for the truck guy from Lissma saw + an attic window that was three centimeters larger than the beam did the trick.....
Had some plans to do like the Egyptians with the pyramids, but it worked out a bit more smoothly.
Had some plans to do like the Egyptians with the pyramids, but it worked out a bit more smoothly.
now comes a small description.
this is what my house looks like in cross-section.
& this is what it will be like!
I will enlarge my bathroom by using the room that is half a floor down.
the green between the rafters is a laminated beam which will replace the part of the rafter that is removed.
the red are load-bearing walls.
there are 3 rafters that need to be shortened in this way & replaced with "green" laminated beams.
the question is how I should replace the load-bearing wall that was removed in the bathroom?
the rafter & laminated beam must rest on something, a laminated beam or a steel I-beam.
I preferably don't want this beam to encroach on the ceiling space in the bathroom.
the space between the outer & inner ceiling is 40cm where it is tightest.
the beam must not be placed all the way up against the outer roof as it would block the ventilation of the attic!
the carpenter I talked to hasn't seen any drawing, but he mentioned something about braces.
this is what my house looks like in cross-section.
& this is what it will be like!
I will enlarge my bathroom by using the room that is half a floor down.
the green between the rafters is a laminated beam which will replace the part of the rafter that is removed.
the red are load-bearing walls.
there are 3 rafters that need to be shortened in this way & replaced with "green" laminated beams.
the question is how I should replace the load-bearing wall that was removed in the bathroom?
the rafter & laminated beam must rest on something, a laminated beam or a steel I-beam.
I preferably don't want this beam to encroach on the ceiling space in the bathroom.
the space between the outer & inner ceiling is 40cm where it is tightest.
the beam must not be placed all the way up against the outer roof as it would block the ventilation of the attic!
the carpenter I talked to hasn't seen any drawing, but he mentioned something about braces.
I would never dare attempt that operation with "just" a carpenter as an advisor (or this forum). You need to involve a structural engineer.
What the carpenter means by suspenders is probably to place a beam on top of or "in" the rafters, with some form of fitting down and possibly around under the rafter. But you also need a calculation to ensure that it is really okay to cut the rafters as you have planned. If they are trusses, the stability is affected if all the braces are not properly connected at their joints. It can certainly be fixed, but you need someone who can calculate it.
What the carpenter means by suspenders is probably to place a beam on top of or "in" the rafters, with some form of fitting down and possibly around under the rafter. But you also need a calculation to ensure that it is really okay to cut the rafters as you have planned. If they are trusses, the stability is affected if all the braces are not properly connected at their joints. It can certainly be fixed, but you need someone who can calculate it.
there is talk of glulam in the rafters? The problem isn't the replacement piece for the modified rafter, the load there is just snow and roof tiles. It's the new red line on the right that must be correct, and the removed red line on the left that should be replaced.....
Yes, but the method that the carpenter has probably envisioned is to transfer the load from the supports that are losing their support to nearby supports that still have support (assuming it’s not the entire side of the house in question).
However, determining if the remaining supports can handle the load is a job for a building consultant. And to design the load transfer so that it truly transfers the load to a part of the roof truss that can bear the load.
Successfully building a load-bearing wall (the right red line) is likely simple. But cutting the right roof truss and making it shorter could have unexpected effects. Although the span of the truss will become shorter, it is an intervention in the truss structure. And therefore, even shortening it could make it weaker.
However, determining if the remaining supports can handle the load is a job for a building consultant. And to design the load transfer so that it truly transfers the load to a part of the roof truss that can bear the load.
Successfully building a load-bearing wall (the right red line) is likely simple. But cutting the right roof truss and making it shorter could have unexpected effects. Although the span of the truss will become shorter, it is an intervention in the truss structure. And therefore, even shortening it could make it weaker.
Shortening the right side is certainly no problem, nor is creating a new load-bearing wall (provided there is something load-bearing to place it on), but the issue will be solving the extension of the left side, either by placing new overframes parallel to the old ones, or by placing a glulam beam crosswise between the roof trusses that still stand on the load-bearing wall and hanging the other three on the beam (using hangers ? (=beam brackets ?)), and then making a new short truss between the beam and the right side.
Before anything is done, I will of course hire a structural engineer or whatever it might be called.
I just want to bounce around some ideas so that I know in advance if I'll be able to solve it without having a visible beam in the bathroom.
If it's not possible to solve at all, then it feels unnecessary to hire a consultant for 10,000:- completely in vain.
Then maybe it will be cheaper if I come with a finished solution that they just need to approve & adjust.
The roof trusses are not factory-made.
I don't think the new load-bearing wall will be a problem, it should also not be a problem to cut the roof trusses as I see it.
It involves 3 roof trusses & they are 100cc
The unused room has 3 roof trusses including the outer wall truss.
In the other direction, there is only one truss, then we are in the stairwell & there the truss is replaced by an equally long glulam beam, then come 5 ordinary trusses including yours in the outer wall on this side.
I just want to bounce around some ideas so that I know in advance if I'll be able to solve it without having a visible beam in the bathroom.
If it's not possible to solve at all, then it feels unnecessary to hire a consultant for 10,000:- completely in vain.
Then maybe it will be cheaper if I come with a finished solution that they just need to approve & adjust.
The roof trusses are not factory-made.
I don't think the new load-bearing wall will be a problem, it should also not be a problem to cut the roof trusses as I see it.
It involves 3 roof trusses & they are 100cc
The unused room has 3 roof trusses including the outer wall truss.
In the other direction, there is only one truss, then we are in the stairwell & there the truss is replaced by an equally long glulam beam, then come 5 ordinary trusses including yours in the outer wall on this side.