5,146 views ·
9 replies
5k views
9 replies
Best way to attach the ends of glulam beams to concrete
Hello!
I will be building a ceiling in a room in a concrete building. The room is 5 meters wide and 6 meters long. Since 5 meters is too long for standard joists, I plan to place a glulam beam between the long sides so that the joists only need to be 3 meters long. The ceiling will only need to support about 40cm of insulation.
What is the best way to secure the ends of the glulam beam to the concrete? Are there any really heavy-duty angle brackets so that I can then run a threaded rod through the concrete wall and another through the glulam beam?
Will a 315x90 glulam beam from byggmax be sufficient?
By the way, I would like to take this opportunity to welcome myself to this excellent forum!
Regards
I will be building a ceiling in a room in a concrete building. The room is 5 meters wide and 6 meters long. Since 5 meters is too long for standard joists, I plan to place a glulam beam between the long sides so that the joists only need to be 3 meters long. The ceiling will only need to support about 40cm of insulation.
What is the best way to secure the ends of the glulam beam to the concrete? Are there any really heavy-duty angle brackets so that I can then run a threaded rod through the concrete wall and another through the glulam beam?
Will a 315x90 glulam beam from byggmax be sufficient?
By the way, I would like to take this opportunity to welcome myself to this excellent forum!
Regards
Hello and welcome to the forum.
It seems quite unnecessary to use glulam beams here. Isn't there already a roof? Can't you just use a brace from the old roof down to your new ceiling so you can avoid the glulam beams?
Regardless of the answer to the above, I actually think you could manage without glulam anyway, as the load will only be a bit of insulation plus its own weight. If you're going to have a smooth plaster ceiling, there is a risk of cracks at the joints, but with wood paneling or something similar in the ceiling, it will definitely work, the deflection will be minimal, even at 5 meters.
It seems quite unnecessary to use glulam beams here. Isn't there already a roof? Can't you just use a brace from the old roof down to your new ceiling so you can avoid the glulam beams?
Regardless of the answer to the above, I actually think you could manage without glulam anyway, as the load will only be a bit of insulation plus its own weight. If you're going to have a smooth plaster ceiling, there is a risk of cracks at the joints, but with wood paneling or something similar in the ceiling, it will definitely work, the deflection will be minimal, even at 5 meters.
Thank you for the welcome!
Measured again and it is 5.52m that the glulam beam would need to be.
The problem with attaching to the old roof is that it is lightweight concrete modules that have suffered so much frost damage that they will soon give way. I plan to replace the entire roof in the future and still want to have my warm insulated part while that work is ongoing.
However, I want to minimize the risks of sagging.
Measured again and it is 5.52m that the glulam beam would need to be.
The problem with attaching to the old roof is that it is lightweight concrete modules that have suffered so much frost damage that they will soon give way. I plan to replace the entire roof in the future and still want to have my warm insulated part while that work is ongoing.
However, I want to minimize the risks of sagging.
It might be slightly too long for the usual 45x220. If you want to save some money you could build your own box beam.
I'm not knowledgeable enough about fastening to concrete to answer that. Spontaneously, it feels like you need some sort of support. A sturdy joist hanger or a beam.
I'm not knowledgeable enough about fastening to concrete to answer that. Spontaneously, it feels like you need some sort of support. A sturdy joist hanger or a beam.
I would have used wooden beams, maybe 45x170 on 1200mm centers. I have a span of 5.45m in the intermediate floor over the kitchen. It worked without a laminated beam, 3 pieces of 45x220 on each 900mm center + one 45x220 in between. But you don't need to size it to live on the ceiling
Member
· Västerbottens län
· 18 051 posts
Why not glue-laminated timber 45x245, it is stronger than standard timber and the price could be about the same.
Studs in these dimensions are not cheap.
But you probably need to contact the manufacturer directly and then you'll get help with the sizing.
Protte
Studs in these dimensions are not cheap.
But you probably need to contact the manufacturer directly and then you'll get help with the sizing.
Protte
I don't understand what the question is? Can you try to describe in more detail what you are trying to solve.
If you only want to size it so that it "holds," then 45x70 is guaranteed to be enough! It will certainly bend quite a bit, but it won't break!
In this case, it's more about a smoothly plastered gypsum ceiling that risks cracking at the seams.
In this case, it's more about a smoothly plastered gypsum ceiling that risks cracking at the seams.
Click here to reply