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Basement interior walls - Choice of material and thickness
The interior walls in the basement were all wood-framed with chipboard (some painted, wallpapered, and with plastic walls). I have removed these since some had started to mold. See the attached sketch of the basement to see the wood-framed walls I have taken down.
The plan is to replace all the interior walls with inorganic materials and thus there are a few different options:
- metal studs/wet room boards (difficult to hang things, which I dislike - discarded immediately)
- aerated concrete blocks
- Leca-blocks
Current walls (see sketch):
The cold space will be completely removed in favor of a larger sauna and relax/shower/WC. I will close off the ventilation vents in the exterior walls (or use them for the sauna...). The exterior walls are made of Leca-blocks that have been plastered.
1. To get the same load-bearing capacity as a wood-framed wall (45x75 mm on cc60) in aerated concrete or Leca-blocks, what thickness is needed?
2. Electrical routing seems significantly easier with Leca-blocks since they are hollow. How is electrical routing done in aerated concrete blocks? Is the electrical setup cut in?
The staircase was anchored in the wood-framed wall between WC/Hall. Three rotten 45x120 mm studs supported the "platform," which is now temporarily propped up from below.
3. What thickness of aerated concrete or Leca-blocks is needed to get a stable wall for mounting? Shower mixers and wall-mounted cabinets?
4. How would you handle the staircase? Anchor it to the wall? What thickness is required? If I use Leca-blocks, I think it would be possible to fill up the blocks with cement up to a height of 100 cm, so the load-bearing capacity for the staircase shouldn’t be a problem?
Other walls can vary in thickness, but the one by the staircase can't be too thick without causing a lot of problems. I had intended to reuse the drainage for the WC, sink, and existing water pipes, all of which are routed through the concrete slab in the WC area. I would prefer not to tear it all up, but maybe that's unavoidable. We'll see...
(I have no experience working with anything other than wood. I have inquired and searched a lot on the Internet but haven't really grasped everything yet.)
The plan is to replace all the interior walls with inorganic materials and thus there are a few different options:
- metal studs/wet room boards (difficult to hang things, which I dislike - discarded immediately)
- aerated concrete blocks
- Leca-blocks
Current walls (see sketch):
- Recreation room - Storage
- Hall - Hobby room
- WC/Sauna/Food storage (cold space) - Hall/Staircase
The cold space will be completely removed in favor of a larger sauna and relax/shower/WC. I will close off the ventilation vents in the exterior walls (or use them for the sauna...). The exterior walls are made of Leca-blocks that have been plastered.
1. To get the same load-bearing capacity as a wood-framed wall (45x75 mm on cc60) in aerated concrete or Leca-blocks, what thickness is needed?
2. Electrical routing seems significantly easier with Leca-blocks since they are hollow. How is electrical routing done in aerated concrete blocks? Is the electrical setup cut in?
The staircase was anchored in the wood-framed wall between WC/Hall. Three rotten 45x120 mm studs supported the "platform," which is now temporarily propped up from below.
3. What thickness of aerated concrete or Leca-blocks is needed to get a stable wall for mounting? Shower mixers and wall-mounted cabinets?
4. How would you handle the staircase? Anchor it to the wall? What thickness is required? If I use Leca-blocks, I think it would be possible to fill up the blocks with cement up to a height of 100 cm, so the load-bearing capacity for the staircase shouldn’t be a problem?
Other walls can vary in thickness, but the one by the staircase can't be too thick without causing a lot of problems. I had intended to reuse the drainage for the WC, sink, and existing water pipes, all of which are routed through the concrete slab in the WC area. I would prefer not to tear it all up, but maybe that's unavoidable. We'll see...
(I have no experience working with anything other than wood. I have inquired and searched a lot on the Internet but haven't really grasped everything yet.)
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