A balcony that is several meters up in the air requires consideration of safety aspects that one does not need to think about with a regular deck. @John Smith's suggestion in post #2 to first complete the facade cladding and then attach a bearing beam through it is inappropriate for several reasons. The joint between the bearing beam and the facade panel can attract moisture that leads to the panel slowly rotting, even if the bearing beam is made of pressure-treated wood. This is a very common problem with decks. It is poor construction technique to attach something that represents such large loads in that way. The balcony will weigh around 6 tons with live load. That's many kilos per screw. I am also doubtful about using galvanized joist hangers that are not climate-protected. They will eventually rust and have too thin material to withstand for a long time. Either you use another type of fastening or you use stainless steel fittings or fittings of much stronger material.
Hmmm the galven is a climate protection? .
Of course, you should build safely. But now it feels like they're bringing up things that aren't really going to happen. 2mm steel that is galv/zinc coated. It will last my entire lifetime and even my children's before anything happens... But everything should also be painted. So if I paint these with hammerite, they'll even last for my grandchildren's future.
I may not have expressed myself clearly enough. Galvanized metal joist hangers are not suitable for exposed outdoor locations. Either mount them in a more protected way or choose another fastening method, e.g., placing the joists on top of the beam. The entire interior part of the balcony must be protected with metal just above floor level, extending up the wall inside the panel. Galvanized and plated products used outdoors should always be painted.
Galvanization and plating provide rust protection with limited durability. The outdoor environment in Sweden varies greatly in terms of corrosivity. Here on the Blekinge coast where I live, only A4 graded (acid-proof) screws last.
First, check that the screw size can handle a sufficiently large vertical load. With a c/c of 600 mm, it will be over 200 kg per screw. I think you should account for double that to have some margin. The screw length also depends on the thickness of the material you are screwing the support beam into. If it is also 45 mm, 100 mm should suffice; if it's thicker, choose 120 mm.
Now everything is in place just the railing left when a new nut to crack appeared we want the slats on the inside,
we're completely stuck on how to solve it at the corner post,
Anyone have a suggestion?
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