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Lity Lity said:
Yes, I hope they agree to reinforce.

Thanks! ☺️
think about taking a thick plywood and making a hole in it, through which the pipe is threaded, the board should be at least 120cm long, I would say.. then screw-glue it to the beam, one on each side.

you need to create a whole that goes around the pipe.

If they had drilled a hole in the middle of the beam, it would probably have been fine,

the carpenters haven't studied structural engineering and bending resistance, etc.
 
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Daniel Barnaniel and 1 other
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Now you've received a lot of good answers already about the hole drilling and that it needs to be redone. We had the same problem when our bathroom was renovated in 2018, large cutouts in the joists. Two years after it was completed, I noticed that a tile cracked when we walked on it. After much deliberation, it turned out that the waterproofing had come loose from the leveling compound. Probably due to the sag in the joists since they had been weakened so much by the cutouts.
The entire bathroom was torn out and redone earlier this year with strong reinforcements in the joists. This time with 15mm plywood that was screwed and glued just as the answer above says.

So stand your ground, bring in an inspector who can do a 3-step inspection of the bathroom (construction, waterproofing, and final inspection) so that you can be sure it’s built according to all the regulations then.
 
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Lity
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A better solution is to drill through the joists,
And reinforce with construction plyfa,

Clamps on the plumbing parts in case they become wobbly,
 
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I had a similar question when my bathroom was being renovated. They said it was okay without reinforcement, but that I was the one who decided. They installed multiple layers of plywood. I also wanted new insulation. The answer was that it wasn't necessary, but I was the one who decided. Then there was a bit of additional work they did. It was supposed to be an ÄTA costing a few thousand, but they haven't billed for it.
 
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Heij83 Heij83 said:
Is the floor drain really 200mm from the wall?
Yes, it actually is. That's the only thing they were really sure about when I asked. It's currently about 35cm out, but it will be moved so that the edge is at 30cm. So it should be fine. As long as they secure it properly this time.
 
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H Husärlivet said:
Hi!

It's a shame they didn't pull it in the basement. They did it at our place, the only thing I actually asked for, and they bowed and thanked me. But in your case, maybe you can ask them to reinforce the beams on each side by gluing and screwing on new 45x95 studs?? There should be room, one might think!!
Screw a hole plate on the top side
 
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lilytwig lilytwig said:
I had a similar question when my bathroom was being renovated. They said it was okay without reinforcement, but I was the one who decided. They put plywood in several layers. I also wanted new insulation. The answer was that it wasn't needed, but I was the one who decided. Then there were a few other additional jobs they did. It would have been a change order costing a few thousand, but they haven't billed for it.
Thanks! Yes, that's probably the worst that could happen, that they charge for it, but at the moment they're just saying "no, it's not needed." We haven't talked about the insulation yet, but I'm going to bring it up with them. It was there before, so it should be there afterward too. I'm also a bit unsure about the exterior wall. I read that there should be a vapor barrier and foil there. I guess it has a similar function to that aluminum foil, but it's been there since '67 when the house was built. Also, the carpenter must have fallen into the wall, because now there's a hole in the foil that wasn't there before.
 
S SCS0709 said:
You have already received a lot of good answers about the hole drilling and that it needs to be redone, we had the same problem when our bathroom was renovated in 2018, large cutouts in the joists. 2 years after it was completed, I noticed that a tile crunched when we walked on it. After much back and forth, it turned out that the waterproofing layer had come loose from the self-leveling compound. Probably due to the flex in the joists as they had been weakened so much by the cutouts. The entire bathroom was torn out and redone earlier this year with strong reinforcements in the joists. Then with 15mm plywood which was screw-glued just as the answer above says.

So stand your ground, bring in an inspector who does a 3-step inspection of the bathroom (construction, waterproofing, and final inspection) so you can be sure it is built according to all regulations then.
Oh, how unfortunate to have to redo it. Did the contractor cover it?

Thank you!
 
J Jontha said:
As previously mentioned, where the heck is the construction for the well?? It should be reinforced with at least 195 joists.

The holes are really rough. It doesn't seem to be a long distance in the room and they are over the shorter side. You can/should reinforce those joists at the hole by glue-screwing plywood on both sides of the hole. Just saw out the profile for the hole.

Then you're free to reinforce and strengthen the joists.
Thanks! The room is about 300x130, and to the left over the same flooring is the kitchen (as long as the bathroom, so all the weight is over the same flooring).
 
B Boan said:
consider that they need to take a thick piece of plywood and make a hole in it, which the pipe is threaded through, the board should be at least 120cm long I would say.. it is then screwed and glued against the joist, one on each side.

you need to get a whole that goes around the pipe.

If they had drilled a hole in the middle of the joist, it would probably have been fine,

the carpenters have not studied structural engineering and bending resistance, etc.,
Thanks!
 
N Nissetissetimmerman said:
[image]
Thanks! Where is it taken from? It was good ☺️
 
Here is a picture of the current state in the bathroom. There you can also see how they have framed around the drain in the shower.

Another question. I'm wondering if it's okay that they have cut out for the water pipes as they have in the horizontal beam that runs along the floor on which the wall studs are standing?

The beam by the water pipe to the toilet also looks a bit questionable (but it has probably looked like that even before they started).
 
  • Bathroom renovation showing floor joists with piping and insulation; area prepared for shower drain installation.
Lity Lity said:
Here is a photo of the current state in the bathroom. There you can also see how they framed for the drain in the shower.

Another question. I'm wondering if it's okay that they have cut for the water pipes as they have done in the horizontal beam that runs along the floor where the wall studs are located?

The beam by the water pipe to the toilet also looks a bit questionable (but it probably looked like that before they started).
When I did my bathroom, I was terrified that the screws for the floor chipboard would go down into the water pipe or drain. Therefore, I had a much larger distance between the top of the beam and the holes for water and drainage.
 
A alexanderlukas said:
When I did my bathroom, I was terrified that the screws for the floor chipboard would go into the water pipe or drain. Therefore, I had a considerably larger distance between the top of the joist and the holes for water and drainage.
Yeah, exactly... There are recommendations for that too. I read 6.5 cm from the top to avoid risking damage to the drains. But it feels like they just winged it and hoped for the best.
 
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