Drain through joist?

[Dr Benz]

Thank you! No, the openings don't look good anywhere I read, but I'm not an engineer and can't swear that it's wrong, you know... So I was wondering if anyone knows for sure that what they've done is wrong. At least that it should be supported. I really don't understand why they just don't reinforce so we can avoid arguing about it. It shouldn't be time-consuming or expensive to do it.

Thanks for the tip! I've completely forgotten to check what the underfloor heating manufacturer says, so I will look into that. But is it possible to install with 300cc now when there are lots of drains between the beams?

As I understand it, the holes should be made relatively in the middle of the beams. So my answer is no, it is not possible to retrofit the beams afterward. In my eyes, the drain must be removed.

I'm no expert, but anywhere I read, you're not allowed to notch a beam either on top or underneath.

 

[Lity]

Interesting. Then I probably have to backtrack on this.
However, I would never dare to take chances, so we will do cc 300 or seal it completely.
Then we have the penetrations that don't seem good at all if you read a bit in safe water. But someone who really knows should probably comment.

this is what LK writes regarding their underfloor heating.

This is what it says on Ebeco's installation instructions. It should mean that they are satisfied with reinforcements if I interpret correctly (and the base with leveling compound or their cable board)?

 

[Lity]

As I understand it, holes should be drilled relatively in the middle of the beams. So, my answer is it can't be retrofitted to the beams afterwards. In my eyes, the drain must be removed.

I'm no expert, but wherever I read, you're not allowed to notching out a beam either on top or below.

Yes, exactly, and if you look at how they ran the water pipes through those closer to the door, I think they're too close to both the top and bottom, too tight and too many? But I'm not even going to argue about those holes, because then it will probably never be finished...

No, I find that you're supposed to be restrictive with cuts on the top part, and if it's to be done, it should be over a support. There are also tables for how much of the beam can be removed and how wide it can be depending on the percentage. The cutout for the toilet is okay if you look at the measurements in percentage and so on, but the question is whether it can really be considered "over support" if it's 80cm away... In the table, the highest percentage they show is 50% of the height, but here it's between 60 and 65% of the height, and quite wide. The table states that the cutout can be 1.2x the height wide if it's a 50% cutout of the height (i.e., 26cm wide if it's cut out 11cm on the height). There are no figures for larger cutouts in percentage, which may mean it's not okay?

 

[Dr Benz]

Regarding EBECO, it sounds like it's okay and that's good.

But when it comes to the holes, I probably want to let someone who actually knows exactly what's applicable handle it.

I am indeed very careful with those 28mm holes that I drill for the underfloor heating in the joists.

 

[Lity]

Regarding EBECO, it sounds like it's okay and that's good.

But when it comes to the holes, I would prefer to let someone who actually knows exactly what's required handle it.

I'm definitely very cautious with those 28mm holes I drill for the underfloor heating in the joists.

Yes, exactly, so besides reinforcing, it should probably be okay with 600cc.

I feel the same way... Waiting for feedback from an architect and an inspector, but it doesn't look very promising to get someone out before they cover the floors and walls again... I also don't want to force them to pause and leave it unfinished for several months if the company is booked for other projects afterward. We have already exceeded the timeline...

 

[Patzie]

Hello!

I think that the floor drain also appears to be incorrectly installed. It should have a kind of framed "box" around it.

Looks like it's just messy, just fix it, the carpenter hasn't been there after the plumber to frame either for new chipboard or the drain, as it seems.

 

[Patzie]

Yes, exactly, so besides reinforcing, it should probably be okay with 600cc.

I feel that way too... Awaiting feedback from an architect and an inspector, but it doesn't look very promising to get someone out before they cover the floors and walls again... I don't want to force them to pause and have it unfinished for several months either if the company is booked on something else afterward. Already over time...

Cc 60 with glued 22 chipboard, leveling compound with mesh min 20mm is an approved construction, however, they should reinforce the inlets.

 

[Lity]

Cc 60 with glued 22 particle board, leveling compound with grid mesh min 20mm is an approved construction, however, they should reinforce the outlets.

Thanks!

 

[Lity]

Looks messy, just attach it; the carpenter hasn't been there after the plumber to brace either for new chipboard or the drain, it seems.

You are right. That was early in the process. Since then, they have covered the floor and walls, but then had to tear everything down again because they made a lot of mistakes, and when it became "naked" again we discovered much more. However, the drain was incorrectly installed anyway. There's now a brace running parallel to the beam, so the drain is supported on two sides, but not all four. The plan wasn't to tear the floor up again, so he must have thought it was sufficient.

 

[Mortsken]

Thank you! Do you mean for preventive purposes if something happens afterwards, to an inspector, or that you wanted to see more pictures?

Yes, I have used voice recording when I have been there and talked with them, and the rest I take via SMS to have everything written down.

I meant for preventive purposes and to the inspector.

 

[Lity]

I meant for preventive and for inspector.

Thanks for the tip! I've already taken quite a few photos, but I'll make sure to take even more going forward.

 

[Fredrik_T]

However, the well was still installed incorrectly. There's a beam running the same direction as the rafters now, so the well is supported on two sides, but not all four..

The well should be framed along all four sides for it to be an approved installation (at least it was when I last installed). With the weakening they've done to the floor joists, I wouldn't feel secure.

 

[Lity]

The well should be framed on all four sides for it to be an approved installation (at least it was when I last installed it). With the weaknesses they've made on the floor beams, I wouldn't feel safe.

Yes, exactly. I'll try to make sure they do it right this time. I feel so damn annoying micromanaging their work, but I don't trust that they'll do it correctly... No, we don't feel safe with it at all, but hopefully, we'll find a solution on Monday when they're back again.

 

[Heij83]

Is the floor drain really 200mm from the wall?

 

[Jontha]

As previously mentioned, where the hell is the construction for the well?? It should be supported with at least 195 beams.

The holes are really rough. It doesn't seem to be a long distance in the room, and they're located over the shorter side. You can/should reinforce those beams at the hole by glue-screwing plywood on both sides of the hole. Just saw out the profile for the hole.

Then you're free to support and reinforce the beams.