Attaching a stud to a concrete wall?

[anra]

Hello,

I read that others have had success with Fischer (FUR 10x160 T). More can be read in this thread: http://www.byggahus.se/forum/byggmaterial-byggteknik/120152-fasta-barlina-mm-i-betonghalsten.html

I can also recommend reading a bit on the Fischer website... http://www.fischersverige.se/Portal...astning/_dokument/Kapitel_fasadinfastning.pdf

 

[Pierre_E]

Thanks for the answer! I didn't know if facade plugs were enough to attach something in hollow bricks, was considering chemical anchors and all sorts of similar solutions

Does anyone have an idea about the fastening of the porch roof to the brick facade? Maybe install vertical posts attached to the wall and let the outward-facing roof joists rest on them? Or install a load-bearing beam? I'm a bit afraid the bricks won't hold for it...

/Pierre

 

[thewolf]

Attaching to the brick can be a bit tricky, what's behind the brick? Was thinking if you can pull something through the brick? Or attach to the rafters in the eaves somehow

 

[Pierre_E]

It is a small cavity with insulation behind the brick and then aerated concrete (durox). The brick is so-called perforated brick, I believe.

I think there is an opportunity to attach to the rafters instead, I didn't think about that, I'll check out that possibility! Is it sufficient with thicker angle iron for that?

/Pierre

 

[blandaren]

There are plugs intended for concrete hollow blocks, but they are not very cheap. I prefer casting concrete piers to lay the beams on. It's been a few years since I lost count of the number of decks I have built, but only once have I drilled into the foundation, and we went through the foundation completely and used threaded rods (10mm) with large washers.

As for your second question, I can't answer because I don't know what type of brick you have, but ideally, you should use a beam against the wall on which you then attach the joist hangers or even better, place the rafters on the attached wall beam.

 

[Pierre_E]

Thanks for the response. I don't think it will work well with footings next to the house; it was drained last fall, so there is a bit too much risk of settling right next to the house. @blandaren: Even if façade plugs for hollow masonry are expensive, shouldn't they still be cheaper than footings? I'll see if I can find Fischer's FUR-plug 10/160 which was recommended in a post. Would it be adequate with two (placed vertically) at approximately cc60, like between the joist hangers?

I'm starting to think about skipping the roof, I would have liked to have it all the way out, but then it would extend four meters from the house. The spans become too large, and I would prefer not to have a support beam in the middle. It would then be a post in the middle of the deck (I had only planned to have the roof over half of the deck due to building permits).

/Pierre

 

[ravedog]

Hello there,

Old thread and many "404" on the links I noticed

An interesting question on the previous page:
"I’m supposed to have a load-bearing wall with 95mm wooden studs. 'Syllpapp' underneath of course, but how on earth do you attach it to the floor? Nailing through with impact nails makes a hole in the 'syllpapp', or is that how you're supposed to do it?"

I’m just about to put up a carport with a storage section. The slab is an insulated one that I cast a few years ago. Regarding the construction on the slab there, is it enough to lay 'syllpapp', the stud on it, and then drill through the whole thing and attach?

I think that’s almost how you have to do it to then attach with an expander or the like, but at the same time, it becomes a “metal bridge” for moisture between concrete and wooden stud on each bolt/nail or similar. What do you wise ones think about that?

What do you say about how to attach, is it still concrete expander bolts that most recommend for that type of fastening?

Thanks in advance!

/R

 

[SBH]

Hello there,

Old thread and many "404" on the links I realized

An interesting question on the previous page:
"I'm going to have a load-bearing wall with 95mm wooden studs. 'Syllpapp' underneath of course, but how on earth do you attach the whole thing to the floor? Nailing through with impact nails makes holes in the 'syllpapp', or is that how it's done?"

About to set up a carport with a storage part. The slab is an insulated one I cast a few years ago. Regarding the construction on the slab there, is it enough to lay 'syllpapp', the stud on it, and then drill through it all and fasten?

I think that's almost how you have to do it to then attach with an expander or similar, but at the same time, it becomes a "metal bridge" for moisture between the concrete and wooden stud on each bolt/nail or similar. What do you wise ones say about this?

What do you say about how to fasten, is it still concrete expansion bolts that the majority recommend for that type of attachment?

Thanks in advance!

/R

'Syllpapp' will obviously have holes in it. Usually, I have the 'syllpapp' go up on the end grain.
Possibly attach the 'syllpapp' with staples. But it works without.

Use spike plugs or expansion nails.
You should not use concrete expansion bolts.