AG A, how can you interpret what I wrote as if the box would be attached to plaster???? What I wrote was that the "plaster" could get stuck in the box and then when the box moved (because it is not rigid) the "plaster" could crack/come loose.
 
elmont said:
AG A, how can you interpret what I wrote as if the box would be attached to gypsum???? what I wrote was that the "gypsum" could get stuck in the box and then when the box moved (because it doesn't sit rigidly) the "gypsum" could crack/come loose.
...and what I mean is that the box should sit rigidly.
 
AG A said:
...and what I mean is that the box should be mounted firmly.
Aren't they still made of plastic?
 
My outlets and switches here at home are very firmly attached, considering they have a counterhold when you screw them into the box. But should you perhaps be able to twist them and such?
 
Facket said:
Isn't it better to return those extra boards I have to the building store or put them in our storage and use them for another job instead of throwing away the broken board? Many probably take that route, but I think it's important to consider the environmental aspect, every little bit counts.
If they are broken, the building store should take them back—why pay for broken items that prevent you from doing a 100 percent job? I don't put up broken boards at my place, they are too cheap to compromise on. Is spackle environmentally friendly?
 
Do you think that's how you build a good relationship with your building supplier, by complaining about a few boards that you yourself say are so cheap? Should I return the boards I accidentally damaged and blame it on them being like that when I got them? Because it's definitely not possible to prove anything, either way. As someone else mentioned, not spackle, gipsbruk...
 
The box is made of plastic and is usually nailed to a wooden stud; the nails run through "holes" and typically do not sit rigidly against the stud. You can also use various wooden or plastic spacers and sometimes metal stud brackets, but these are not rigid and can move a few mm both in depth and sideways. No boxes are typically rigid unless they are in concrete; they become rigid when you attach the device, pressing the box against the back of the panel and the device against the front of the panel.
 
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If you have damaged them yourself, you should not return them. If you have a good relationship with your building supply store, they won't send damaged goods, and if they accidentally do, they will replace them without needing to prove anything.
 
I was just thinking about that last part you mentioned about it being rigid when it's assembled and finished. I can't comment on the durability of a plaster mortar, so I'll refrain from doing so.
 
Of course you make a complaint if it's about 20 out of 100 boards, but when it's about 2-3 dented boards... come on? Just cut off a little cardboard, ask the painter to fix it before he starts joint compound? Choosing not to put up a damaged board at home for yourself is one thing, but when you're doing it all day and you weigh the alternatives, it's at least a given for me.
 
elmont said:
The box is made of plastic and is usually nailed to a wooden stud; the nails run through "holes" and typically don't fit snugly against the stud. Various wooden or plastic blocks can also be used, and metal stud brackets are sometimes used, but they do not fit snugly and can move a few mm both in depth and sideways. No boxes usually fit snugly unless they are in concrete; they become snug when you attach the device so that the box is pressed against the back of the board and the device against the front of the board.
If you set the boxes correctly and are a professional, they stay in place; otherwise, you might need to change profession 😀
 
Polos, I can tell you that there's a difference between sitting silently and being stuck. Maybe you should ask to come on a study visit to an electrician working on a construction site so you can look and feel :thumbup:
 
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Facket said:
Of course you make a complaint if it involves 20 out of 100 boards, but when it's a matter of 2-3 dented boards... come on? Cut off a little paper, ask the painter to fix it before he starts seam filling? Choosing not to put up a damaged board at home for yourself is one thing, but when you do it all day long and weigh the options, it’s a given for me.
If 2-3 out of a hundred is dented, place the board where it needs to be cut so the damage disappears, and you've done a proper job.
 
Yes, should plan the jobs better.
 
Snailman
elmont said:
Polos, I can tell you there is a difference between sitting tight and sitting firm. Maybe you should ask to visit an electrician working at a construction site so you can see and feel :thumbup:
I grew up in a blåbetong house, and I have become unbearably tired of wall sockets that you have to hold onto when unplugging (to prevent the wall socket from coming with) so for my construction I bought some metal brackets for my vp2 boxes, which I hadn't used until recently (they were weak) when I placed one on each side of the box. :thumbup:

I have 70 studs and 17mm raw paneling on both sides, normally I set the boxes in two pieces of roof batten that I nail into the raw panel and then screw the box with two screws into the batten diagonally. (There is a reason why I never get finished)
 
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