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Alternatives for outer corners drywall without corner protectors? How is it done in new construction?
But it's probably not about what's good but about what's fast, I guess. The paper corner with built-in adhesive is quick.O oliven1 said:
For my personal use, I prefer the metal corner. It can withstand more impact, it's 100% straight, and I find it easier to plaster. The end result is always good.
absolutely, there is probably some truth in that.MathiasS said:
The paper has become popular for a reason.
Good enough for a reasonable cost and time-efficient.
Then you reinforce where necessary with external corner protectors/wall protectors because in high-load environments like schools, hospitals, etc., metal corner protectors don't help at all.
It's in the reveal, I assume. You plaster the entire width, and there's nothing strange about that, even if it's by a patio door. You always have to plaster the width from the metal corners since these protrude a few millimeters.B bygges said:
Yes, in the recess. I only get scolded here by Matte_75 if I explain myself more, but I missed that beveled edges should be kept on the drywall if you want to maintain a 90-degree angle in the recess and make it easier to plaster in.MathiasS said:
I have new patio doors and don't want to risk scratching them with the plastering trowel, exaggerated yes indeed. I have used ultraboard in the recess for one and hardboard for the other door. Ultraboard is incredibly much stronger than regular drywall and has surprised me several times with how it handles impacts, for example, the other day I accidentally knocked an oak tabletop with sharp edges straight into an ultraboard sheet, and there were barely any marks. I tried on another outer edge to use a regular paper tape after a tip from sinuslinus and it turned out great, so that's what I'll use on these recesses.
I also have an old recess by an old exterior door, which is going to be replaced (from the outside), where the recesses slope outward. Here it's perfect to use aquabead as the extra millimeters they add create a nice 90-degree angle in the recess. I've glued these up and with plaster underneath, I've also removed the concavity in the wall.
The fact that you don't have beveled edges left does make it a little trickier, but it's still not a problem. You just need to plaster a little further out on the board. The idea that you might scratch the patio door with the trowel is just your imagination.B bygges said:Yes i smygen. I only get scolded here by Matte_75 if I explain myself further, but I missed that beveled edges should remain on the plasterboard if you want to keep a 90-degree angle in the reveal and make it easier to plaster..
I have new patio doors and don't want to risk scratching them with the plastering trowel, excessive yes indeed. I've installed Ultraboard in one reveal and hard plasterboard in the other. Ultraboard is incredibly much stronger than regular plasterboard and has surprised me several times with how it can withstand impacts, for example, I accidentally knocked over a table top with sharp edges into an Ultraboard panel the other day, and it barely left marks. I tried using regular paper tape on another edge following a tip from sinuslinus and it turned out great, so I'll do the same on these reveals.
I also have an old reveal by an old exterior door that is going to be replaced (from the outside) where the reveals are slanted outward. Here it's perfect to use aquabead as the extra millimeters they add create a nice 90-degree angle in the reveal. I've glued these and with plaster underneath also corrected the concavity in the wall.
But, you can do exactly as you wish. It's a good idea to check the final result in proper angled light to see if it turned out as well as you intended.
I've replied in the other thread that you just plaster the entire width of the reveal, and you'll get right-angled reveals. File down the sharp corners on the plastering trowel if you're worried about scratching the frame.B bygges said:Yes i smygen. I only get scolded here by Matte_75 if I explain myself more, but I missed that beveled edges should remain on the drywall if you want to keep a 90-degree angle in the reveal and make it easier to plaster in.
I have new patio doors and don't want to risk scratching them with the plastering trowel, excessive yes indeed. I've installed ultraboard in one reveal and hard drywall in the other door. Ultraboard is much stronger than regular drywall and has surprised me several times how well it handles impacts, for example, the other day I accidentally knocked over an oak tabletop with sharp edges right into an ultraboard sheet, barely leaving any marks. I've tried on another outer edge to install a regular paper strip following advice from sinuslinus and it turned out great, so that's what I'll do with these reveals.
I also have an old reveal at an old exterior door, which is to be replaced (from outside), where the reveals tilt outward. Here, it's perfect to install aquabead, as the extra millimeters they add create a nice 90-degree angle in the reveal. I've glued these up and with plaster underneath also removed the concavity in the wall.
but isn't it rather common not to have beveled edges on outside cornersMathiasS said:
Not having beveled edges makes it a bit trickier, of course, but it's still not a problem. You just have to spread the filler a bit further out on the board. The idea that you might scratch the patio door with the shovel is just a figment of your imagination.
But, you do as you please. Feel free to check the final result in good raking light to see if it turned out as well as you intended.
What is common may not matter; it doesn't seem unreasonable that at least one side is chamfered... The one against the patio door should, for example, be easy to have chamfered with some leftover piece from an inner corner.O oliven1 said: