Add insulation to the roof Mineral wool and vapor barrier

[Holmfrid1]

In the cabin built in 1960, I plan to tear out the sawdust on the roof and re-insulate. First, install Tecca wind deflectors between the rafters at the foot, then lay Isover Vario Xtra variable vapor barrier, tape it, and blow in Rockwool attic fill 350mm.

A bit concerned about the setup since there is no ventilation or spacing inside the cabin? What do you think?

 

[klaskarlsson]

In the cabin built in 1960, I plan to tear out the sawdust in the ceiling and re-insulate.
First, install Tecca air deflectors between the rafters at the eaves, then lay Isover Vario Xtra variable vapor barrier taped and blow in Rockwool attic insulation 350mm.

I'm a bit uncertain about the setup as there is no ventilation or slatting inside the cabin?
What do you think?

Don't know what "lutfning" inside would do ?
You ventilate towards the outer roof to remove any moisture or condensation there.
Inside the insulation, no ventilation gap is needed for that, but in modern constructions, you usually have a little additional insulation, or ventilation gap, to run electrical conduits so you don't have to go through the vapor barrier/block for concealed electrical work.

 

[Holmfrid1]

Don't know what "venting" on the inside would do?
You vent towards the outer roof to ventilate away possible moisture or condensation there.
Inside the insulation, there is no need for an air gap for that purpose, but in modern constructions, there is usually a small additional insulation, or air gap, to run electric conduits so you don't have to go through the vapor barrier for hidden electricity.

Thanks for the answer, but is the "glesen" only for running electric conduits in more modern houses?

 

[klaskarlsson]

thank you for the response but is "glesen" only for pulling electrical conduits in more modern houses?

Glesläkt, as such, is to be able to attach the ceiling to something. But the fact that there is a "gap" is because the glesläkt needs to have a certain thickness to support the ceiling.

 

[Oldboy]

Principally, it is unwise and poor to have an air gap on the inside. The reason for building this way is specifically for the function of running electricity as well as being able to fasten the ceiling gypsum to something that allows the screws to be tight enough so that the gypsum does not bulge.

In the attic, an air gap is needed under the roof if it does not allow moisture to pass through. The most common is tongue and groove and roofing felt, and since the roofing felt doesn't allow any moisture to pass through and is on the cold side, an air gap is necessary under the tongue and groove.