B
Don't see the problem with doing as you have now with 4 screws... How often do you need to remove to backflush?

These 4 decking boards are fastened with a total of 4 decking screws, remove and lift the hatch at least 2 times a year, it has worked for at least 20 years now.
 
  • Wooden deck hatch with four screws under a white railing, surrounded by gravel and grass; used for back flushing maintenance twice a year.
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Murbyggare and 2 others
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If I hadn't felt it was a problem, I wouldn't have asked the question. 👍 You maybe didn't think of it that way?
 
P Paxman said:
Thank you for all the creative suggestions in this thread! I really love forums in that regard, you ask a question and get a bunch of different suggestions/answers that you can take with you. Sometimes it's the solution you're looking for and sometimes it's things you can take to other matters.

I think I'm getting closer to the solution I've had in my head but couldn't define. It's leaning towards a dowel in the right short end, as it's easy to align everything. To fix the left end and lock the plank, I'm trying to find something similar to this:
[image]
This is called a "quarter-turn lock", i.e., a lock that turns a quarter turn to lock and unlock. It's just a matter of finding one in the right size and with the "right" type of handle. Ideally, I'd like to find one with the type of handle that's common on boats, something recessed when not in use. We have some hatches on the deck where I've used this variant:
[image]
I don't like protruding things on/around the deck. You move barefoot, with thin loose clothes and bare legs...and don't want to risk getting caught or scraping yourself.
If you like boat stuff, there are often double-hinged table hinges in the furniture, so that nothing sticks out, e.g., recessed in the tabletop that you want to be able to fold up 180 degrees (like on SJ train tables).
There too, you don't want anything uneven on the surface.
You wouldn't need to remove the board then, just fold it fully open to get the hole free (if it works).
Then you need to lock something on the beveled side, maybe a sunken short but thick screw with coarse threads that don't lose their grip much (otherwise you can plug in new wood after 20 years if the threads get worn).
 
  • Three types of boat table hinges: oval hinge with 8 screw holes, a rectangular hinge with 4 central fixings, and another with a square center.
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Paxman
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Yes, I have handled those for a boat table! It really could be an option to recess them on the inside of the right side of the plank if I want to make it even more complicated. 😁 If I can just get the locking mechanism on the left side right, I will consider hinges or pins. 👍
 
I don't quite understand how that solution could work in my case, and it also requires a "tool" to open...and to clarify, it's not that the locking solution has to be hidden.
 
Hey, those weren't bad at all! You should be able to attach the hondelar on the sides of the poles and the handelarna on the detachable board. 👍 Just need to check that the hose has enough space... it comes out quite close to the left pole due to the placement of the filter pump... and it can't be moved.
 
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Roga1337
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These are claimed to be stainless...however, allow me to doubt that. 😁
 
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