I have floor heating chipboard throughout the house and in the kitchen, it's planned to lay mat. I have no desire to use leveling compound and I understand laying mat directly on floor heating isn't possible haha.
So, I'm considering 12mm flooring chipboard. I place the metal rails first, then the tube. Now my question is, should you lay felt paper, then 12mm chipboard floating with glued joints?
I checked some installation instructions for rot-floor on an existing wooden floor, and they advised laying felt paper, then screwing all over but only gluing the joints.
Or should you skip the felt paper and glue to the other chipboard as well and screw?
Hope I didn't make it too complicated. Thanks in advance!
So, I'm considering 12mm flooring chipboard. I place the metal rails first, then the tube. Now my question is, should you lay felt paper, then 12mm chipboard floating with glued joints?
I checked some installation instructions for rot-floor on an existing wooden floor, and they advised laying felt paper, then screwing all over but only gluing the joints.
Or should you skip the felt paper and glue to the other chipboard as well and screw?
Hope I didn't make it too complicated. Thanks in advance!
You will significantly reduce the effect of the underfloor heating with a 12 mm chipboard compared to leveling compound.
I would lay down felt paper and then screw the chipboard between the pipes. Just mark on the chipboards where the pipes go first, and it will be fine to screw.
Floating chipboard with plastic carpet, I don't think will be so good in the long run...
I would lay down felt paper and then screw the chipboard between the pipes. Just mark on the chipboards where the pipes go first, and it will be fine to screw.
Floating chipboard with plastic carpet, I don't think will be so good in the long run...
Will it really make that much difference? I understand it insulates a little. I calculated a bit, if I put down 13mm screed and buy it from byggmax, it will cost about 4000 kr, and the particleboard floor 1500kr. Sure, it's nothing for the whole build. But I read somewhere that you had to have 15mm self-leveling screed on underfloor heating?anders07 said:
Then it would be easier work for me to lay particleboard. Also, I imagine that the floor becomes stronger with a layer of particleboard than with self-leveling screed? It is still a wooden beam frame underneath with particleboards that are full of grooves and wildly joined.
A big advantage of self-leveling screed is that there are no seams or screw holes that can show on the mat.
The floor becomes "stronger" with self-leveling compound, buy fiber-reinforced compound and lay out 3mm reinforcement mesh, and you'll have a floor that withstands all conditions.
I find self-leveling compound easier; mix it up in a few buckets and pour it out or cut and adjust chipboard? I choose to pour out self-leveling compound every day of the week.
The chipboard steals a lot of heat, yes, and it won't "store" heat either as the self-leveling compound does. However, you can easily lay 16 mm parquet/laminate too, so it will certainly work well even with chipboard...
I find self-leveling compound easier; mix it up in a few buckets and pour it out or cut and adjust chipboard? I choose to pour out self-leveling compound every day of the week.
The chipboard steals a lot of heat, yes, and it won't "store" heat either as the self-leveling compound does. However, you can easily lay 16 mm parquet/laminate too, so it will certainly work well even with chipboard...
Thank you so much for the help. Yes, now that you put it that way, it actually sounds smoother and I shouldn't have any slopes either.
If I now apply leveling compound, do you still use metal strips? And how much leveling compound do you need to put over underfloor heating? Is Byggmax fiber leveling compound sufficient?
Many questions, but if you don't ask, you don't learn anything. Thanks again for taking the time!
If I now apply leveling compound, do you still use metal strips? And how much leveling compound do you need to put over underfloor heating? Is Byggmax fiber leveling compound sufficient?
Many questions, but if you don't ask, you don't learn anything. Thanks again for taking the time!
Byggmax filler works fine, but I found it cheapest at Hornbach last time I bought a pallet (I think it's called Megaplan).
There are different schools of thought on the thickness, but generally, it should be 1/10th of the cc distance between the heating pipes, so for example, a cc distance of 150 mm would require 15 mm of filler over the pipe. Then there are some variations between different manufacturers of filler; Megaplan had at least 15 mm, I believe, referring to the pipe potentially moving at different temperatures, and it needs to hold regardless.
You should have the plates anyway, they ensure the heat is "reflected" upward.
There are different schools of thought on the thickness, but generally, it should be 1/10th of the cc distance between the heating pipes, so for example, a cc distance of 150 mm would require 15 mm of filler over the pipe. Then there are some variations between different manufacturers of filler; Megaplan had at least 15 mm, I believe, referring to the pipe potentially moving at different temperatures, and it needs to hold regardless.
You should have the plates anyway, they ensure the heat is "reflected" upward.
Have to check with the spackel manufacturer then.
I already have the plates so it would be silly not to use them. Plus, the heat gets better as you say, but I have read that the plates get damaged and you get air pockets? But there should be some primer you can use.
I already have the plates so it would be silly not to use them. Plus, the heat gets better as you say, but I have read that the plates get damaged and you get air pockets? But there should be some primer you can use.